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[Music] [Applause] [Music] Alaska he would have been considered a rash prophet who five years ago predicted it would one day become a great and powerful state so wrote an authority in the National Geographic magazine in 1902 a time when fields of gold were thought to be an endless supply today the gold is all but gone yet man persists in channeling the vast wealth contained in the earth and sea to his purposes caught up by the frontier spirit and equipped with new technology he continues to challenge the harsh stubborn forces of nature and appears to be winning [Music] is he now as in the past simply exploiting and plundering only to leave when he is done or will he stay to make the prophecy of greatness for this awesome majestic land a reality at last [Music] what is said of Alaska's glacier covered country it controls man should also apply to its ostensibly lush terrain homesteads are free for the asking on three hundred million acres of public lands but even the government regards been mostly unsuitable for cultivation yet it is the nature of Alaskans not to accept the conclusions above us Bob Watkins was born in Kentucky and worked as a mechanic in Detroit before coming north and 59 having met the requirement for ownership 20 acres cleared and tilled within five years this 160 acre homestead is now his [Music] starting this year Rob and his family of five planned to live here permanently [Music] while the odds are against them the government estimates two-thirds of all homesteads will fail they believe their few head of cattle and small crops of peas oats and barley will eventually grow to commercial size and provide them with a comfortable income in the meantime they will live off their own land there are nearly 6 million acres of spruce and hemlock in the South coastal region alone within a few years the logging industry has grown to become second only to fishing in the state's economy most of the timber will be pulverized and serve as the base for synthetic fibers much of it for export to Japan Alaska's prime potential market a spot tree is the focal point of the complex operation required to pull the felled trees down from the mountain the slope [Music] throughout its history alaska's natural wealth has brought men here refer for fish for gold they came took what they wanted and left the land better only recently as conservation become an important concern for government and industry alike and closely supervised advanced reforestation programs ensure both controlled cutting now and new healthier forests in the future Anchorage is Alaska's boomtown 121,000 people nearly half the state's population live in this area and it's still growing remote from the south 48 states its people are perhaps more spiritedly American than anywhere else in the nation so they must be to carve out a modern society in this inhospitable country partly by choice partly by necessity they live off their land king crab moves and caribou countless kinds of fresh salmon and trout are frequent substitutes for beef and pork to bring people and prosperity to Alaska reliable inexpensive transportation must get be developed the recent inaugural of a fairy system of three giant ships marked an important step forward formerly isolated from each other the seven towns along the rugged broken southeast coastline have now begun to engage in constant productive exchange Akane's the traveler must finally take both wheel for approximately 700 miles of dusty rough road to fairbanks or Anchorage from Anchorage another ferry route ties together and makes easily accessible a number of South Western towns but when cannot expect to traverse Alaska on land and water alone for good reason is it called the flying mist state Bill Garrett a National Geographic editor and photographer has been covering the new state in its people for several years we met Pete session as a bush bottle with a service to sell it came to cherish him as a friend he's as open as the country he served for 20 years flying families food mail and spare parts to remote fishing and logging new communities so I'm a great risk to his own safety he and a handful of fellow pilots of the lifelines with a spectacular month here we have an emergency out at Thorne Bay 35 Ketchikan do they have a stretcher available away [Music] emergency's the bush pilot has few questions he just goes these intimate knowledge of 18,000 square miles of this untamed land has proved indispensable many times to some hundred and sixty expected mothers he got them all to the hospital long time as well at the seventies search and rescue missions for lost aircraft Alaskans need each other Pete knows the next search could be for him [Music] [Applause] the Athabasca Indians of toyamakk an isolated fishing village on the Cook Inlet have lived a long time without a cultural heritage and like most of alaska's native population without decent housing and medical attention as well the tribes leader Albert Koloa recalls a poverty-stricken childhood here during which there appeared no hope for a better future nothing then in 1962 oil companies came to Thailand new homes fix the oven for the first order of the day when the village received twelve million dollars for options on some of its land although millions more in royalties are expected at your production again the fortune is regarded as communal rather than personal property the minute continue earning their own livings while many are learning new trades from construction to oil rigging al prefers to stick to his old one commercial salmon fishing the foremost fishermen and tonic he's usually been able to make enough in the month-long season to support his family through the year many of his fellow villagers however are seldom is successful [Music] this summer the village inaugurated its own Head Start program our pointed out how since their sudden prosperity he could see a change in the people kids smiled now and many of the grown-ups had put on 20 pound education is perhaps our most vital concern College has always been an unthinkable luxury no longer [Music] new public school is scheduled open soon is from up north but the 270 thai Onix aren't stopping here they pledged themselves in their capital to helping all the native peoples of Alaska achieve a similar high standard of living and degree of Independence Alaska's capital jury relation of 10,000 is reached only by sea or air it boasts the most moderate climate in the state in the 60s during the summer the thirties in the winter another source of pride is its nine-hole million-dollar golf course the grass free fairways are literally a priceless sight so with every step and stroke the player touches gold tailings from the old Juneau goldmine dating back to 1880 that was the year of Joe Juno's discovery the first major strike in Alaska suddenly this for unknown country relegated to oblivion by the public and government demanded respect Restless adventurers and prospectors already finding the Wild West to civilized came first then 17 years later the world rushed in for gold tons of it had been uncovered in the Klondike [Music] farmers and doctors barbers bankers and housewives more than 100,000 people left their homes in quest of quick fortunes in the Yukon Gold in the millions was to be had but only a chosen few would ever find it fewer keep it [Music] it was a time for legends and each of the nearly 40,000 souls who finally reached the klondike's capital Dawson could rightfully claim his own for the journey itself was a challenge of monumental proportions weather and geography as formidable as any place on earth denied entry to all but the most Hardy and determined the major routes through Alaska began in Skagway and died a 600 tortuous miles away like Dawson Skagway became an overnight boomtown swelling to 15,000 at its peak in 98 during that year the lawless ruled by soapy Smith and his gang of con men thieves and swindlers forced one seasoned traveler to conclude it was about the roughest place in the world little better than a hell on earth Soapy's brief colorful career was ended by a bullet in the town transformed itself into a law-abiding church-going community it prospered for three more years [Music] crowds no longer stream down Broadway yet remarkably Skagway survived cherishing their past the 750 inhabitants take watches during freezing winter storms to safeguard the lifeless haunted buildings against fire Skagway has no substantial year-round industry but now it is the last stop on the ferry route and tourism provides a saving grace from complete economic disaster within three hectic months its citizens must earn their annual living usually from a wide variety of jobs relax during these valuable summer days besides greeting all the ships at end of the port and running a hotel he serves as a local travel agent airline representative official weatherman and also manages the local TV station we probably had a smallest station than you oh right here it's costly but it still nice to see what's going on the rest of the world when the chi jackals as the indians called the excited wild-eyed strangers in their midst set out for the Klondike they had little idea what dangers and agony lay directly before them to state foresters in the local Wrangler joined the Garrett's to ride walk and climb the infamous Chilkoot trail infamous because it would take many a gold craze Tenderfoot three months to conquer these first 35 miles to the Yukon it was wintertime then blizzards and the tunnel more of supplies slowed movement to a snail's pace [Music] there was death along the choku suicides murders and pneumonia one gigantic avalanche of ice and snow took more than 60 lives yet few turned back the horses have been returned to Skagway only pack mules could master the terrain from here on by now the weirdly Klondike errs have discarded all luxuries chunks of jewelry and fancy clothes spotted the landscape before reaching the Chilkoot fast many a greenhorn had also surrendered his bankroll to soapy Smith's cleverly disguised conman beasts of burden could not go beyond the scales here all supplies were weighed before the finalists entered the Chilkoot pass itself for those who could afford Indian Packers to carry their goods the rate was a dollar a pound this then was the Argonauts first major test of strength endurance and patience 3,500 feet to the summit and the Canadian border 40 trips back and forth to the scales to get all supplies up no one permitted a cross with less than 1,100 pounds of food lose your place in the creeping line and you lose a day perhaps more of a storm strikes 22,000 men women and children climbed this pass in the winter of 98 a romantic yearning for wealth had brought them from Greece and Japan Australia and Scot Florida and Texas on the inhuman Chilkoot the gold became a burning obsession [Music] 550 miles of wilderness still lay ahead the gold seeker had to decide should he go on dog-teams would now take him to a lake where boats could be built for the trip down the Yukon but some men their heavy loads of boat kit safely on the top had had enough of this defiant country and returned to civilization preferring heartbreak to insanity they left behind seventy years ago these warped symbols of their dreams [Music] two years after the first Stampede the first leg of a narrow gauge railway was opened between Skagway and Bennett Lake in the Yukon this incredible engineering feat signaled the doom of the treacherous choke OOP for four days we walked over the bones of a gold rush dreams of wealth alone couldn't explain the mass hysteria I'm sure there's also the glamour of the rush and the urge to be a part of this adventurous country which compelled thousands to take the torturous trip to the Klondike and those who made it all the way only to find the gold already staked couldn't consider themselves failures for they'd written a unique chapter in the history of human courage and imagination [Music] the terminus of the Mendenhall Glacier on the outskirts of Juneau is one of Alaska's unique impressive and most easily approached visual wonders the Mendenhall together with a number of other gargantuan rivers of ice comprised the 1500 square mile you know ice field the glacier is one of the earth's most delicate recorders of climatic change and thus to students and scientists come here to analyze its past present and future this ice field in particular due to its intense storms and exceptional snowfall is perhaps the most climatologically sensitive in the world [Music] sometimes over a hundred feet of snow falls here annually the succeeding years deposits compress it to a fraction of that depth and as the scientist descends a crevasse he may read a record of the glaciers life in the delineated layers of ice with other research results he may determine not only how fast it is moving but how far [Music] the 1500 mile long Alaska highway runs from Dawson Creek in Canada to Fairbanks Alaska today's traveler having taken the ferry up the southeast coast need drive only part of it about three days worth in 1942 16,000 soldiers and civilians worked around the clock for six mud filled mosquito ridden months to complete this epic task the road has changed little it is still mainly unpaved dusty and funky the scenery also remains the same uncluttered and magnificent between Fairbanks and Anchorage there lies an area to which the men and women of these growing cities find themselves increasingly drawn Mount McKinley National Park is their retreat 3,000 square miles of unspoiled wilderness rising 20,320 feet the lofty peak of Mount McKinley may be seen for hundreds of miles here landscape and wildlife joined together to form the special sense of freedom that to Alaskans is Alaska our last frontier still undeveloped and untamed welcomes with open arms all who would build a new society the contemporary Alaskan Oliver doesn't think of himself as a trailblazer rather as an individual in search not of wealth but self-respect and meaning not social status but independence and unlike the adventurers of old who came to plunder than leave he plans to stay [Music] [Music] you