Mv 260f 2016

Too much :)I haven’t been actively farming for several years, so my knowledge is a bit dated, but to give you some idea of what it can cost, I can give you a rough estimate of a typical harvest day on our operation, raising barley and wheat in Montana.Back when I was in high school (about 15 years ago or so), we were running 4 John Deere 9600 combines along with 2 tractors pulling grain carts and a handful of trucks to haul grain into town. The tractors varied from year to year, but for a long time there was a JD 8760, and a similar sized Case tractor. The trucks were another variable, but since this is a very rough estimate lets say 4.The combines were where I spent most of my time. I believe they had approximately 100 gallon fuel tanks, and on a good day I suppose we burned off 80–90 of those gallons.The tractors are a bit harder to estimate…depending on the yield of the crop they could be driving and running more or less on any given day. I think we probably filled the tractors with diesel every 3 days or so. According to TractorData.com John Deere 8760 tractor information, the 8760 had a 220 gallon tank, so maybe 70 gallons/day? That was usually the larger of the two tractors, so lets say 130 gal/day between the two.The trucks are the hardest for me to estimate. Again, it would depend on crop yield, but also on hauling distance. Furthermore, I don’t have a clue how big the fuel tanks were, and we had a lot of different trucks. I did drive one for a couple seasons, I think I remember putting in around 50 gallons every other day or so. That was road fuel, so a bit more expensive than the farm fuel we used in the combines and tractors.Putting all that together, something like 450 gallons of farm diesel and 100 gallons of road diesel is a ballpark estimate. Probably another 50 gallons of gasoline as well for all the cars and pickup trucks people ran around in. Harvest usually took around 25–30 days to complete, so that would give you an idea of how much fuel for the season. I’m too lazy to look up fuel prices from 2002 and do the math, but hopefully this gives you some idea.I would say harvest is probably the most fuel intensive season on a farm like ours. Other seasons running farm machinery would include seeding, spraying, and feeding cattle. I don’t have good estimates on those, but I suspect they weren’t anywhere near harvest.

Well, that’s a turning swords into plowshares question, if ever I’ve heard one.This is the Minewolf MW370.It weighs about 2.5–3 times as much as the largest commercial tractor you can think of, and most of that weight is meant to keep the vehicle itself, and its operator intact when it runs over anti-tank mines.It was actually created to be smaller and more efficient than other mine tillers on the market. I’ve seen one in action. It’s the size of a small house.When you talk about demining equipment, you are talking about a bunch of expense for features that normal farmers don’t need. Do you as a farmer require ballistic glass to keep your face from getting blown up by overenthusiastic sugar beets? No? I didn’t think so.There are more than enough minefields existing in the world today that no demining equipment should ever be used for anything else.I hope that one day things will be different, but as for now, we need mine tillers to do what they do, around the clock, all over the world, to keep civilians from getting blown up.A small tractor destroyed by an anti-tank mine on the North-South Sudanese border.Here’s a great article on how MineWolf works, including some photos of damage after run-ins with anti-tank and fragmentation mines.MineWolf Flail and Tiller Machines: Testing the Differences Between Two Demining Technologies

Gather the following information. 1. Who owns the car. ( generally you can’t insure physical damage to a vehicle you don’t own) 2.who will drive the vehicle. 3 VIN # (17 digits long). 4. Current policy #. 5. Credit Card.Call your SF Agent, or call any SF Agent phone number after hours 24/7/365 . They will connect you to a ‘Quote and Bind’ Department. If you give them $, ( consideration) , and your current policy is in good standing, you can get ID cards texted to your smart phone.

Here is a great video from some experts on the topic:YouTubeI just answered this question on our Blog. Here it is:Like millions of drivers in search of their dream vehicle, you may be asking the question "When is it best to lease a car?"Instead of asking you to crunch the numbers yourself, we went ahead and found the answer for you.For many good reasons (and not just the math), more and more drivers are choosing leasing instead of buying. Lease volume has doubled in the last five years; about a third of all new car and truck transactions are now leases. For many it makes good sense, especially for millennials who are driving the charge in leased vehicle volume, but also for seniors. In fact, some of the stronger growth in leasing comes from drivers over the age of 75.[caption id="attachment_492" align="alignnone" width="1418"]Statistics c/o New Cars, Used Cars, Car Reviews and Pricing | Edmunds[/caption]Leasing is Easier than Ever!One of the largest draws: Imagine never having to set foot in another dealership. Because, if by chance you were to find yourself in a showroom throwing your hands up sky high at shell-games and bait-and-switch tactics, or surrendering to burgeoning bottom lines and hidden costs that come with buying a car from a dealership - you can bet that you’ll be seeing more add-ons for the financing of that car.The point is to walk straight through the double-doors and get away fast. Try looking online instead - at the wide availability, personalized options, fixed monthly payments, and tax benefits of a leased new vehicle. Lease pricing can be hassle-free and negotiated online with a virtually unlimited selection of makes and models and several available payment plans. Almost like having a two- or three-year-test-drive, your leased car also comes with an option to buy in the glove compartment. Better still, you’ll know both the exact sales price and the condition of the car if you choose to buy it.Because the monthly payment of a leased vehicle covers the taxes and depreciation only for the duration of the lease, and not the lifetime of the vehicle, taxes paid will be lower while depreciation that can be written off will be higher. Even though the lease payment period may be the same as a purchase payment period, lease payments will be less.[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="1000"]You have to worry less about depreciation costs when you lease. Image c/o Auto Repair by Top-Rated Mobile Mechanics | YourMechanic[/caption]The Future of Resale isn't ClearIt’s always easier to buy than to sell, and things change. What the resale market will be like when you go to sell several years from now is always an unknown. The resale value of your vehicle will depend on many factors beyond your control. The national economy, local oversupply of used cars, bad press about your particular model, and big-ticket repair costs of engines and transmissions are just a few that can suddenly appear. In addition, your own marketing skills will all affect the resale price. You might ask yourself, “Is selling used cars my strong suit?”Additional Benefits[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="1139"]Car technology is constantly improving. Image c/o http://Carsguide.com[/caption]A new car every few years reduces the chances of breakdowns and cuts your maintenance cost to zero - while it looks good, smells good, feels good, and impresses the neighbors all at the same time.The Low-or-No down payment of a leased car will leave you with more cash to leverage in other investments, and less equity tied to your vehicle.Because of group rates leased cars come with lower insurance premiums.New vehicles come with new technologies that have changed fast. A few items to look and ask for: Forward-collision warning, automatic emergency braking, a backup camera, rear cross-traffic alert, blind-spot monitoring Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, Bluetooth connectivity, 360-degree surround-view camera systems, head-up displays, USB port, voice controls, keyless entry Heated seats and steering wheel, dual-zone automatic climate control, automatic high beams, an added Spare tireFor some, buying a new or used vehicle may be the better choice. But increasing numbers of drivers are choosing to lease instead. Weigh all the options of leasing against the particulars of your personal life and financial situation. Then take some time to visit a dealership and compare. If you get home debt free go online to shop the wide variety of possibilities for leasing instead of buying.For more on this topic, head to: https://www.carlease.com/blog/

Check your state laws. Generally if a vehicle is driven solely on private property it is legal.I am not an attorney.

You could probably benefit from having an answer by someone who has experience operating under the farm truck exemption, rather than strictly commercial drivers.Farm vehicles are exempt from requiring a CDL under the FMCSA, when certain conditions are met, and this is reiterated in the New York CDL handbook in the first page of Section 1 [1]This is how I was able to drive my father’s L9000 with a 45’ trailer and no CDL when I was a teenager.The criteria listed in order to be valid for this exemption under the FMCSA is as follows:It is plated as a farm truck, and not as a commercial truck, does not bear ICC/MC numbers, etc.It is operated by the farmer, immediate family members of the farmer, or direct employees of the farmer.It is used exclusively for the purposes of that farm, and never contracted out for third party work. This can include transporting water and equipment, transporting supplies from a vendor to the farm, transporting farm goods to market, and similar activities.It is operated within a 150 road mile radius of the farm. Some states also tack on a 100 air mile radius.Additional allowances and restrictions may be imposed by the states. For example, I believe it’s Illinois which allows certain visa holders to operate an exempt farm truck within a 50 mile radius of the farm, but those additional allowances outside of what the FMCSR allows end at the state line.In the case of exempt vehicles, licensing requirements are left to the states. Looking at the New York drivers manual, it lists the three classes of CDL (A, B, and C), the operator license (D, which is their ‘standard’ license), E (livery) for vehicles which are designed to transport 15 passengers or less (including the driver), M (motorcycle), and two ‘junior’ classes - Junior Operator and Junior Motorcycle. So New York doesn’t appear to have non-CDL Class A and B licenses nor any other type required for the operation of exempt vehicles.However, if you look under ‘endorsements’, New York does an ‘F’ endorsement which is required for ‘farm Class A vehicles’[2].So there’s your answer - you don’t need a CDL, provided you meet the criteria and restrictions for operating under the farm truck exemption, but you do need an F endorsement.Now, there is an instance where you might. Farm vehicles carrying hazmat are still generally exempt, though some states may restrict it to certain HM classes or even negate this altogether. In which case, a CDL with hazmat endorsement would be required.Footnotes[1] https://dmv.ny.gov/brochure/cdl1...[2] Driver License Endorsement and Restriction Codes

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The vehicle should already come Certified. It is illegal in some states to charge a customer to signNow the vehicle. Certification can cost the dealer anywhere from $150 (hardly any miles, just a diagnostic/safety check) to over $3000 (to make it like NEW, the point of certification). If it's too costly, the miles are too high, or the car is too old, it cannot be certified. It is not cost-effective for a dealer to signNow it and keep the price low enough to be competitive in the market in lots of cases. signNowing a car easily is a great way to add an advantage for you to buy it instead of a new one. I highly recommend certified pre Owned over new, simply for a like-new (if done truthfully and correctly) car with an extended warranty. Some CPO cars come with a 7 year or 100,000 mile bumper-to-bumper (no, tires, wheels, brakes, rotors, or wear-and-tear items, such as knobs and bulbs) warranty backed by the manufacturer.

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