AAA Minneapolis
7th Edition – December 2008
ALASKA
a peace of land
THE NILE
river of the pharaohs
LONDON
crossing the pond for a long weekend
U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS
paradise found
AAA TRAVEL STORE
HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
IN YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD
TO SERVE YOU BETTER!
ST. LOUIS PARK (HEADQUARTERS)
(952) 927-2600
5400 Auto Club Way
(Hwy. 100 near Excelsior Blvd.)
OPEN LATER!
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T H E N I L E river of the pharaohs
L O N D O N c ro s s i n g t h e p o n d f o r a l o n g w e e k e n d
A L A S K A a peace of land
S E T T I N G S A I L 1 0 1 a primer for first-time cruisers
U . S . V I R G I N I S L A N D S paradise found
M-Th., 8-7; F, 8-6; Sat., 9-5
BLOOMINGTON
(952) 888-4232
9872 Lyndale Ave. S.
(98th & Lyndale Ave.)
M,T,Th,F, 9-6; W, 9-7 Sat., 9-1
EDEN PRAIRIE
(952) 944-9585
559 Prairie Center Dr.
(Near the Eden Prairie Library)
M, 9-7; T-F, 9-6; Sat., 9-3
EDINA (GALLERIA)
(952) 925-2244
3452 Galleria
(69th & France Ave.)
M-F, 10-8; Sat., 10-4
MAPLE GROVE
(763) 494-3773
13569 Grove Dr.
(I-94 & Weaver Lake Rd.)
M-Th, 9-8; F, 9-6; Sat., 9-3
MINNEAPOLIS (DOWNTOWN)
(612) 338-8432
Baker Center Skyway
733 Marquette Ave.
M-F, 8-5
MINNETONKA
DECEMBER 2008, VOL. 29, NO. 7 (BONUS)
(Cover photo courtesy of Alaska Travel Industry Association)
EDITORIAL
EDITOR Dawn Duffy
ART DIRECTION / DESIGNER Micah Manganiello
BOARD OF DIRECTORS
PRESIDENT / CEO Steven J. Frank
CHAIR Mary C. Lilja
VICE CHAIR Albert J. Miller, Jr.
DIRECTOR Richard J. Burrock
DIRECTOR Janet S. Fiola
DIRECTOR David L. Hallett
DIRECTOR Martha M. Head
DIRECTOR Thomas H. Jenkins
DIRECTOR Subramanian Krishnan
DIRECTOR Monica Murphy
DIRECTOR Dale Nitschke
DIRECTOR Richard T. Ostlund
DIRECTOR William J. Popp
We appreciate the trust you have placed in us and we continually
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HOME & AWAY MINNEAPOLIS (ISSN 0274-8266) is
published 7 times (bimonthly plus one special edition in
December) by AAA Minneapolis, 5400 Auto Club Way,
Minneapolis, MN 55416-2576, for $1 per year included
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(952) 545-5454
Ridge Square
13007 Ridgedale Dr.
M, 9-7; T-F, 9-6; Sat., 9-3
PRIVACY POLICY
The Nominating Committee of AAA Minneapolis has met, as required by the Club’s Bylaws, and reports that its
recommendations for Directors to be elected at the Annual Meeting on February 19, 2009, are:
• RICHARD J. BURROCK
(ONE-YEAR TERM)
• DAVID L. HALLETT
(THREE-YEAR TERM)
www.aaaminneapolis.com
• THOMAS H. JENKINS
(THREE-YEAR TERM)
• SUBRAMANIAN KRISHNAN
(THREE-YEAR TERM)
• DALE NITSCHKE
(THREE-YEAR TERM)
3
egypt
culture of her larger cities, modern accommodations,
and exciting experiences.
ASWAN
Along the river’s northward journey, streaming past
the Sudanese-Egyptian border, the ancient frontier town
of Aswan is small enough to walk around. A favorite
winter resort area since the 19th century, lazy days are
spent watching the felucca (small, wooden sailboats)
drift around the islands, eating freshly caught fish on
floating restaurants, listening to Nubian music
performed by folklore troupes, and sipping tea at sunset
at the Old Cataract Hotel (where Agatha Christie wrote
“Death on the Nile”).
Towering columns, temple walls, and rock
tombs, built from blocks of granite carved from
local quarries, tell of this once-major center of
commerce and gateway to the rest of Egypt.
THE NILE
river of the pharaohs
by Dawn Duffy
he arid Sahara – the world’s second largest (just
after Antarctica) and hottest desert – envelopes most
of northern Africa with sand fields, mountain ranges,
and barrenness. Winds whip the terrain, sculpting
(and re-sculpting) the landscape with dunes more than
100 feet high. Dust devils dance in spinning updrafts.
The sun bakes down and, in some areas, the clouds
only squeeze out two centimeters of rainfall annually.
FUN FACT
The scarab
(or dung
beetle) is the
symbol of Ra,
the Sun god, and
is a sign of hope and
the restoration of life.
Today, popular Egyptian
souvenirs include jewelry
decorated with scarabs,
both forged in gold (the
metal of choice for
pharaohs) and carved
semi-precious stones.
These amulets also are
often given away as
good-luck charms.
4
Another 35 miles north, the former Greek city of
Apollinopolis Magna, now named Edfu, is a religious
and commercial center, producing sugar and pottery.
The dramatic Temple of Edfu was also built in honor
of the falcon-headed god Horus. This one, however,
is one of the most complete and best-preserved cult
temples in Egypt, thanks to being one of the relatively
youngest and being buried by the dessert for nearly
2,000 years. Excavation in the 1860s found it in near
perfect condition, with deeply cut hieroglyphic
inscriptions and reliefs telling the mythological story
of Horus avenging the murder of his father. This
traditional pharaonic structure is the second largest
temple in Egypt (second only to Karnak Temple in
Luxor).
A journey to the roof of the temple rewards climbers
with sweeping views of the Nile and the neighboring
fields.
Adventure kicks in, however, once stepping into the
bustling marketplace, or souk, with tables overflowing
with hand-woven scarves and baskets, exotically
fragrant perfumes, and native spices.
T
did you know
EDFU
Where there is thought to
be nothingness, there is life.
And history. And beauty.
This is the place where
Egypt thrives, with the
Nile River running through
the heart of her desert,
irrigating her land and
sustaining her people.
LIFE-GIVING WATERS
Bordered by Libya to the
west, Sudan to the south,
and Israel and the Gaza
Strip to the northeast, and
with the Red Sea on the east
navigating through the Suez
Canal waterway up to the
Mediterranean Sea to the
north, Egypt encompasses
about 387,000 square miles.
With her approximate 81.7
million people, the U.S. Census Bureau’s International
Database ranks Egypt as the third largest country in
Africa (behind Nigeria and Ethiopia) and the most
populous in the Middle East. The vastness of space and
population, however, do not correlate. Due to Egypt’s
mostly desiccated environment, nearly 99 percent of her
people live along the arable agricultural banks of the Nile
River, living on just 5.5 percent of all the country’s land.
The significance of the Nile was even recognized during
ancient Egypt’s “early period” (during the time of the
Old Kingdom), when she was called Kemet (derived
from kem, meaning “black”) to describe the dark,
fertile soil deposited by floods.
This life-giving waterway actually begins as two separate
tributaries – the White Nile rising from the headwaters
of Africa’s largest lake – Lake Victoria – and flowing
through Uganda, and the Blue Nile from Lake Tana in
Ethiopia – that meet and join at Khartoum, Sudan.
As the waters snake northward and into Egypt, they
meander through lands dotted with pyramids, drift past
city market bazaars bustling with merchants, reflect
buildings along urban skylines, and regularly flood
agricultural farmlands (a soil replenishment called
“The Gift of the Nile”).
The dichotomy of old and new along the busy Egyptian
Nile spoils visitors with the opportunity to both enjoy
the uniqueness of Egypt’s ancient monuments, temples,
and relics, while also experiencing the cosmopolitan
Home & Away – December 2008
As with most cities along the Nile, Aswan’s historic
ruins – both on the west bank and on Elephantine Island
– are top tourist attractions. Towering columns, temple
walls, and rock tombs, built from blocks of granite
carved from local quarries, tell of this once-major
center of commerce and gateway to the rest of Egypt.
The Unfinished Obelisk, planned to be the largest ever
erected had it not cracked before being fully mined, is
a fascinating site.
KOM OMBO
Approximately 30 miles downstream from Aswan,
between steep banks of sandstone, Kom Ombo once
controlled the caravan routes to the gold mines, earning
it the nickname “City of Gold.”
Today, visitors flock to the Temple of Kom Ombo,
standing tall on a dune overlooking the Nile. Uniquely
consecrated in honor of two deities – Sobek the
crocodile god on the right side and Haroeris (“Horus”)
the falcon god on the left – the gateways and chapels lay
symmetrically along the temple’s main axis. Despite the
temple’s damage – from the flooding Nile, earthquakes,
and other builders pilfering its stones for other purposes
– reliefs around the ruins still tell the stories of kings,
religious practices, and historical events. Mummified
crocodiles also are on display in the chapel.
In addition to tourism, this mainly agricultural
community farms sugar cane and corn.
TEMPLE OF EDFU
relief carvings of falcon-headed Horus
ESNA
Continuing along the Nile, the city of Esna sits atop
centuries of silt and mud left behind from repeated
floodings. Historically, the area was named Latopolis,
in honor of the Nile perch, the largest of the 52 fish
species abounding in the river.
Similar to Edfu, excavation began in Esna in the 1860s
and some of the well-preserved halls of the Temple of
Khnum are once again on magnificent display (while
other parts are still buried under the city). Dedicated
to the ram-headed god Khnum, who is said to have
made man out of Nile clay and a potter’s wheel, the
Temple of Khnum is one of the latest temples built by
the ancient Egyptians. Remains of an older building
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5
Affordable Luxury Cruising
24 Small Ship Journeys throughout the World
also have been found, indicating the temple was
constructed on the same site as an earlier structure.
Today, the Temple of Khnum stands in the middle of
the modern town, more than 30 feet below current
street level and with its still intact roof reaching up to
the level of nearby home foundations.
Esna also is known for its lock system which,
unfortunately for ferrying tourists and sea-bound
merchants, can hold up river traffic for hours.
LUXOR
Known as the ancient city of Thebes and formerly the
capital of Egypt, today’s Luxor is the “world’s greatest
open-air museum,” based on the number of monuments,
temples, and tombs in the vicinity. International tourism
supports a great part of the local economy, both as a
popular destination and as a port for cruising the Nile.
Galapagos & South America
7 to 14-day Cruise & Tours from $3,299
Egypt & the Nile
9 and 11-day Cruise & Tours from $2,899
Featuring the luxury Oberoi Zahra and Cairo’s best 5-star hotels
Luxor proper, on the East Bank, is heralded by the
Temple of Luxor, former setting of the annual Beautiful
Feast of the Opet. This boisterous celebration marks
the link between the pharaoh and the god, Amun.
Discovered in 1881, the temple is approached by a row
of well-preserved sphinxes (dromos), with its entrance
flanked by a pink granite obelisk (its “twin” now stands
at Place de la Concorde in Paris, gifted by the Egyptians
to the people of France).
CAIRO
The capital and largest city in Egypt, Cairo sits just
south of the point where the Nile fragments into the
delta region and flows into the Mediterranean Sea.
This thoroughly modern metropolis offers great culture,
including both music and art, as well as a lively nightlife
scene and air-conditioned shopping centers. A throwback to ancient days, however, the bounty of the famous
old Khan el-Khalili bazaar, is a must-see. Mostly
unchanged since the 14th century, vendors hawk jewelry,
spices, perfumes, carpets, and glassware.
The Great Pyramid of Giza, one of three bordering the
city, is the only remaining item of the Seven Wonders of
the Ancient World. Constructed within about 20 years
around 2560 B.C. as the necropolis of King Khufu, it
was the tallest man-made structure for more than 3,800
years (until Lincoln Cathedral in England was erected in
1300 A.D.). The Great Pyramid is the only pyramid to
include both ascending and descending tunnels; its three
known chambers, however, stand empty, plundered
countless times throughout history and robbed of all
funerary treasures.
For a grand presentation of all periods of ancient Egypt,
the Egyptian Museum houses more than 120,000 displayed
artifacts, with the most popular being the life-sized, solid
Other popular sites on the East Bank include the
pilgrimage destination of El-Mekashkesh Mosque,
the Mummification Museum, the Luxor Museum,
and the Temple of Karnak.
China & the Yangtze
12 to 17-day Cruise & Tours from $2,299
Featuring the all-balcony luxury ships of Victoria Cruises
European river cruising aboard
the 5-star ships of Peter Deilmann
8 to 13-day cruise vacations from $1,869
New for 2009 – Be Our Guest! $100 onboard benefit
AAA Members Save $230 to $460 per couple
on all General Tours World Traveler vacations
(952) 927-2525
www.aaaminneapolis.com
Prices shown are per person, double-occupancy,
land-only and subject to change
6
Home & Away – December 2008
cup of tea from Cairo’s spice market
gold funerary mask from Tutankhamun’s tomb.
Where there is sand, there also is water. Where there is
nothing, there also is life. Where there is Egypt, there
also is the Nile, nourishing the land then and now.
Dawn Duffy is Minneapolis Editor of Home & Away
Magazine.
EXCLUSIVE
MEMBER DISC
OUNT
SAVE $50
SPLENDORS
of
The West Bank is home to Valley of the Kings and
Valley of the Queens, the limestone-cut royal tombs.
The most well-known, discovered in 1922 by Howard
Carter, is the tomb of Tutankhamun. Although small in
comparison to the others in the valley, this undisturbed
necropolis was found packed with funerary gifts for the
boy king’s afterlife. Such abundant opulence had never
been unearthed here before and, upon first glimpse,
Carter breathtakingly recalled, “Details of the room
within emerged ... [of] strange animals, statues, and
gold – everywhere the glint of gold,” and, when asked
if he saw anything, all he could barely gasp was, “Yes,
wonderful things.”
Despite a modern bridge built in 1998 just upstream,
ferry service dominates as the preferred way to cross
the Nile for both locals and visitors. Tourists can rely
on horse carriages to see the East Bank. The West
Bank sites, however, lay further away and require
additional transportation. Taxis are plentiful, but
negotiate (and confirm) the price before stepping inside
the vehicle.
KHAN EL-KHALILI BAZAAR (SOUK)
PER COUPLE!
THE NILE
12 Days • 22 Meals
Cairo • Pyramids • Memphis • Sakkara
Valley of the Kings and Queens • Luxor
Deluxe 4-Night Nile River Cruise
Aswan • Egyptologist
STARTING AT
$1949*
For your FREE Brochure
call 952-927-2525 or 1-800-871-7352
or visit AAA.com/mcv
Explore the World with one of our other tours:
Wonders of Iceland - 8 Days • 10 Meals
Reykjavik • Blue Lagoon • Golden Circle • Thingvellir National Park
Skogar Folk Museum • Skaftafell National Park • Nature Cruise • Icelandic Farm
starting at
$1499*
Great Trains, Wineries & Cultures of
Australia & New Zealand - 28 Days • 41 Meals
Why
Cairns • Great Barrier Reef • Ayers Rock • Alice Springs • The Ghan
Barossa Wine Valley • Great Ocean Road • Melbourne • Sydney Opera House
Queenstown • Milford Sound • Mt. Cook • Christchurch • TranzCoastal Train
Wellington • Rotorua
starting at $6699*
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•
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AD1079 1208
*Rate is per person, land only, based on double occupancy. Member Benefit discount not included in rates.
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7
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Queen Mary 2............FROM $1,296
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• Boston to Montreal
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10-DAY CANADA & NEW ENGLAND
ms Eurodam...............FROM $1,829
• New York to Quebec City
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...................................................
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ms Zaandam..............FROM $1,499
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Emerald Princess..........FROM $1,640
AAA CRUISES
AAA TOURS
• Vancouver to Fairbanks
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Explorer to Denali National Park,
Tundra Wilderness Tour, McKinley
Explorer to Fairbanks, Discovery
Riverboat Cruise, Gold Dredge
No. 8 Tour
...................................................
• 7-Days/11 Meals
• 4 nights Savannah. 2 nights in
Charleston. Includes airfare, home
and garden tours, plantation tours,
dolphin cruise, and carriage rides
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ms Statendam.............FROM $2,049
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Ruby Princess..............FROM $2,090
• Barcelona to Venice
• Monte Carlo; Florence; Rome; Naples;
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...................................................
...................................................
SAVANNAH & CHARLESTON
March 28-April 3, 2009........$1,999
...................................................
MACKINAC ISLAND &
TULIP FESTIVAL TRAIN TRIP
May 3-12, 2009..................$2,539
• 10-Days/16 Meals
• Fly to Detroit; motorcoach to Tulip
Festival, Mackinac Island, Door
County, Green Bay, and Chicago;
return to St. Paul by Amtrak train.
• Ford Factory tour, Veldheer Tulip
Gardens, 2-nights at the Grand Hotel
on Mackinac, fish boil, Chicago tour
with Sears Tower Skydeck
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14-DAY CHINA, KOREA & JAPAN
ms Volendam..............FROM $2,399
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SATURDAY, JANUARY 31, 2009
10:00 A.M.
AAA Minneapolis Headquarters
St. Louis Park
• Showcasing escorted tours in 2009,
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OBERAMMERGAU 2010 TOURS–
Once every 10 years, more than 2,000 people from
the village of Oberammergau, Germany, perform the
Passion Play. In 1633, the village lost 80 lives to the
plague and made a vow to present the Passion Play if
the town was freed from the sickness. The epidemic
ended and the people kept their promise.
HOLLAND IN BLOOM RIVER
CRUISE & PASSION PLAY
May 7-17, 2010 ...........FROM $5,149
• Roundtrip from Amsterdam,
fly to Munich, motorcoach to
Oberammergau and back to Munich.
GRAND CAPITALS LAND TOUR
& PASSION PLAY
June 22-July 4, 2010 ...........$6,249
• Arrive in Munich, motorcoach to
Oberammergau and back to Munich,
then on to Prague, Cracow, and Budapest.
ROME TO MUNICH ON RAIL
& PASSION PLAY
August 8-16, 2010 ..............$5,449
• Arrive in Rome for 3 nights, train to
Munich for 2 nights. Motorcoach
through Bavaria to Oberammergau and
back to Munich airport for departure.
BERLIN TO PRAGUE RIVER
CRUISE & PASSION PLAY
September 8-22, 2010 ...FROM $7,149
• Arrive in Berlin for 2 nights, cruise to
Prague for 2 nights, motorcoach to
Oberammergau and on to Munich
airport for departure.
TREASURES OF THE DANUBE
RIVER CRUISE & PASSION PLAY
September 18-29, 2010 ..FROM $5,649
• Arrive in Munich, transfer to Passau
for roundtrip cruise, motorcoach to
Salzburg, on to Oberammergau,
transfer to Munich airport for
departure.
BLOOMINGTON......................... (952) 888-4232
DOWNTOWN - BAKER CENTER.... (612) 338-8432
EDINA - GALLERIA .......................... (952) 925-2244
EDEN PRAIRIE ............................. (952) 944-9585
MAPLE GROVE ............................ (763) 494-3773
MINNETONKA ........................... (952) 545-5454
ST. LOUIS PARK .......................... (952) 927-2525
TOLL-FREE ......................................1-800-871-7352
www.aaaminneapolis.com/travel
Cruise prices are per person, based on double occupancy, and are subject to change. Restrictions may apply. Air, transfers, taxes, and fees are additional.
8
Cruise prices are per person, based on double occupancy, and are subject to change. Restrictions may apply. Air, transfers, taxes, and fees are additional.
All tour prices are per person based on double occupancy, and include hotel accommodations, deluxe motorcoach transportation, sightseeing, and meals as indicated.
Home & Away – December 2008
www.aaaminneapolis.com
9
europe
isn’t a circus but instead, based on the Latin word for
“circle,” describes the round open space created at the
intersection of Regent and Oxford Streets), Piccadilly
Circus (again, no clowns or trapeze artists at this West
End shopping district), and Trafalgar Square (identified
with its trademark Nelson’s Column guarded by four
lion statues). Sitting atop the open-aired bus, we had
excellent unobstructed views of famous sights, like Big
Ben and St. Paul's Cathedral.
Our knowledgeable and personable bus guide debunked
a couple of common misconceptions, informing us that
the name Big Ben actually refers to the bell hanging
inside the four-faced Clock Tower (and not the clock
or tower itself), and that the most scenic bridge over
the Thames is Tower Bridge (while the famous London
Bridge is, in fact, quite flat and plain).
LONDON
crossing the pond for a long weekend
by Christine E. McDermott
W
hen my youngest sister announced she’d be
spending a college semester in London, I immediately
began plotting how I could visit her on just the two
remaining vacation days I had left for the year. Would
it be worth it to hop the pond for a long weekend with
little chance to recover from jet lag before it was time
to fly back home again?
did you know
FUN FACT
With more than 3.5 million
riders annually, the London
Eye is England’s most
popular “paid” attraction.
Constructed in 1999,
Europe’s biggest Ferris
wheel soars 443 feet high
– equivalent to 64 red
telephone boxes stacked
on top of each other!
Traveling at just 0.6 miles
per hour, passengers hop
on and off without the
wheel stopping. Each of
the 32 passenger capsules
holds 25 people and takes
about 30 minutes for
one revolution. On the
occasional clear day,
riders enjoy 25-mile views.
10
A quick chat with my travel
agent confirmed that my
idea was not so crazy: I'd
leave town on a Wednesday
night and arrive at London
Heathrow on Thursday
morning. The hours gained
flying back west would still
give me most of Sunday in
London. Not such a crazy
idea after all for a long
weekend vacation!
I'd been to London before
and done all the typical
popular tourist attractions –
Westminster Abbey (location
of all royal coronations
since 1066), the Houses of
Parliament (where visitors
can attend debates and see
the Archives), Buckingham
Palace (check the flying flag
– the official Royal Standard flag means the queen is
at the palace and the Union Flag announces she is not
in residence), and the like – so I really wanted this trip
to be more about enjoying the city itself. I wanted to
watch “football” (soccer) in a pub, eat Indian food on
Brick Lane, and shop (well, at least window-shop) on
Kensington High Street.
That’s not to say my sister and I completely avoided
looking like tourists that weekend; we did, after all,
partake in a hop-on, hop-off bus tour. Big Bus
Company tickets turned out to be a wise investment.
For just 20 pounds (about $35), we received 24 hours
of transportation around the city, a cruise on the River
Thames, and an invitation to three themed walking
tours. The value is even greater in the winter, when
one ticket is good for 48 hours of all that transportation
and sightseeing.
We hopped off the bus after crossing Tower Bridge,
figuring we could wander the Tower of London a bit
before catching the river cruise. Not only does the
Tower house Great Britain's famed Crown Jewels
(various pieces of elaborate royal jewelry and regalia
worn at coronations and other state functions), but
also an amazing amount of history. A medieval fortress
founded by William the Conqueror in the 11th century,
the Tower was the spot of Anne Boleyn’s execution,
Guy Fawkes’ interrogation, and Richard II’s and
Elizabeth I’s incarcerations.
The boat ride along the Thames afforded us a glimpse
of the South Bank and new London, including the
energy-efficient, rounded-glass City Hall; the Tate
Modern, whose galleries display collections of modern
art; the pedestrian-only Millennium Bridge, London’s
newest bridge since the 1894 construction of the Tower
Bridge; and the London Eye Ferris wheel (see “Before
You Go” on page 10).
We spent my arrival day (Thursday) exploring
Kensington, the upscale and densely populated area
of West London where my sister attended school and
where Princess Diana, who lived at Kensington Palace,
once frequented shops and restaurants. Though we
kept our wallets safely tucked away, we still had fun
browsing the fashions of the moment at stores like
Mango, Zara, and Marks & Spencer.
Friday morning, we boarded the sight-seeing bus for a
two-hour orientation of the city. We rode through the
fashionable Notting Hill, Oxford Circus (which really
Home & Away – December 2008
WESTMINSTER BRIDGE
Big Ben and Parliament along the Thames River
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
pigeons flocking Nelson’s Column
Back on land, we hustled to Trafalgar Square for the
“Ghosts by Gaslight” walking tour, subtitled by many
in the know as “The Spooky London Pub Crawl.”
Our guide, Gordon, took us to several establishments.
Whether you believe in ghosts or not, his elaborate
stories became ever more plausible as the evening went
on (though in London, thankfully for me and my sister,
you can pace yourself on a pub crawl by ordering
half-pints).
Competition is stiff on Brick Lane, where
outdoor greeters beckon with special menus
and promises of free bottles of wine.
Gordon told us some eerie tales. There once was an
hysterical woman who alerted a policeman to a
possible suicide at Cleopatra's Needle, a monument
in Westminster that the Egyptians gave to the British.
The woman mysteriously vanished, only to magically
reappear at the Needle and jump into the river just as
the officer arrived. No body (real or unreal) was ever
found. Then, there was the actor who was killed in a
bout of jealousy after a show at the Adelphi Theatre
more than 100 years ago. His ghost – complete in
period attire – has been spotted at the theatre, as well
as around various London-proper locales.
Afterward, we rode the Tube (the London Underground
metro system) to Aldgate East, one of the stations the
actor is said to haunt, and did what I'd admittedly
most been looking forward to: dined on Brick Lane, the
South Asian enclave teeming with Indian restaurants.
Competition is stiff on Brick Lane, where outdoor
greeters beckon with special menus and promises of free
bottles of wine. We figured we couldn't go wrong if
we found a place that already looked busy with satisfied
patrons, and so we followed a group of young Indian
men into one of the more noisy establishments.
www.aaaminneapolis.com
11
the neighborhoods we’d ridden through the previous
day. We peered into the windows at some of the
hundreds of higher-end stores housed along Oxford
Street, munched on sandwiches and sipped tea at Pret
(London's ubiquitous and delicious answer to Panera),
and made pledges to our true loves at the Eros statue
in Piccadilly Circus.
LONDON UNDERGROUND
waiting for the Tube
While the free wine was mediocre and the decor
was disappointingly nondescript, the piles of curry
we ordered completely satisfied my cravings for
something authentically spicy.
After squeezing so much into our Friday, we thankfully
had another day and a half to just leisurely hang out in
London. We spent Saturday exploring on foot some of
EUROPE
ESCAPE TO A PLACE THIS WINTER THAT
WILL WARM YOUR HEART!
On the way back to Kensington, we made a pit stop
at Harrods, the world's most famous department store
(as well as the largest, with more than 1 million square
feet of retail heaven and 330 different departments).
Outside, the elaborately decorated window displays
alone make Harrods worth a trip, but we excitedly
ventured inside and fought through the crowds to
check out the “luxury” restrooms and the shoe section.
After pulling ourselves away from the $600 pairs of
handmade Jimmy Choo high heels, it didn’t seem so
bad to spend about $5 on a Belgian chocolate bar
downstairs in the Food Hall (especially since it was
the most delectable chocolate I ever tasted in my life).
We departed, content in the knowledge that Harrods
motto – “All Things for All People, Everywhere” –
was so easily attainable by us in just that one piece
of scrumptious candy.
That night, we hit the pub scene and happily discovered
a group of football (soccer) fans absorbed in the hotly
contested Barcelona-Madrid match. They were so into
the televised game that we naturally assumed they all
were Spanish tourists refusing to miss even one game,
only to learn they actually were a mix of ardent British
and Belgian fanatics. We pretended we knew enough of
the sport to root along, dropping into the conversation
our knowledge that David Beckham once forsook his
native England to play for Madrid.
As expensive a city as London can be, the British do
place great value in the public’s access to art, and many
of its top museums offer free admission. We took
advantage of Sunday with stops to the Victoria & Albert
(for collections of art and design) and the Science and
Natural History museums. A highlight was the fashion
exhibit at the V&A, particularly the stunning collection
of clothing from Queen Maud of Norway. From beaded
gowns to hand-cut suits, the queen's outfits exemplify
the impeccable high standards of dress in early 20thcentury Europe.
Twenty hours later, I was back in the office. It may
have been a whirlwind weekend – and, I confess, the jet
lag was a bit rough when I returned to work Monday
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
panoramic view from Cromwell Road
morning – but the trip across the Atlantic was jolly well
worth it. And, to top it off, I had the best water-cooler
story of them all that day.
Christine E. McDermott is managing editor of
AAA Horizons Magazine.
sive
clu fit*:
A Ex Bene
AA er
b
fa
oice o e,
Mem
n
ch
Your obile pho parking,
l m airport onal Travel to Europe when the crowds are
globa tary
opti
limen erson
long gone and at a savings of up to 25%
comp $40 per p oucher.
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compared to summer prices.
to
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10 DAYS....................................
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Featuring Madrid, Granada, Seville, Lisbon & Salamanca.
Italian Splendours
13 DAYS....................................
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Featuring Rome, Sorrento, Assisi, Venice, Como & Florence.
Tour prices include first class accommodations, luxury
motorcoach, services of a professional Insight Tour Director,
guided sightseeing, Premium Highlights, Highlight Dinner,
most meals, and more.
Call AAA Minneapolis at (952) 927-2525 or
1-800-871-7352 to book your Insight Vacation.
All prices are per person, based on double occupancy, subject to availability and restrictions.
* One member benefit per person, some restrictions may apply.
12
Home & Away – December 2008
www.aaaminneapolis.com
13
Don settle for merely seeing it,
’t
experience it.
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* Price shown is cruise only - airfare, transfers, taxes, and fees are additional. Cruise price includes port charges of $270. Prices and shipboard credit are
per person, based on double occupancy, and are subject to change. Restrictions may apply.
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Home & Away – December 2008
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Eagle Creek’s best-selling travel clock
with date, time, and room temp.
Batteries included.
Pack-It® Liquid/Gel Set
Comply with TSA regulations! Onequart zip top bag and three oz. bottles.
AAA GETAWAYS!
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12-day Australia/New Zealand
14-day Hawaiian Islands
Sail from Sydney to Auckland on the
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Fares shown INCLUDE a fuel supplement of $9.00 per person per day up to a maximum of $126.00.
Call AAA Minneapolis at (952) 927-2525 or 1-800-871-7352 to book your Princess cruise.
* Fares are cruise only, per person, USD, based on double occupancy group pricing, capacity controlled, subject to availability, and may be limited by residency and may expire. Fuel Supplement of up to $126 is included in cruise fares and subject to change. Government fees and taxes of between $63.38 and $238.92
are additional and subject to change. See the applicable Princess brochure or princess.com for terms, conditions, and definitions. Ships’ registry: Bermuda. $1,445 fare is based on December 10, 2009, Diamond Princess sailing, Cat JJ. $1,795 fare is based on March 2, 2009, Star Princess sailing, Cat JJ. $1,645 fare is
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19
“Whale, starboard side!”
I drop my book and look
out my cabin window to
see a humpback whale
breaching 100 yards off.
by Sandy Klim
I
t’s going to be another awe-inspiring
evening as we push forward into
Alaska's Inside Passage aboard Cruise
West's Spirit of Yorktown. Throwing
on a jacket and slippers, we rush
topside with our fellow cruisers. Dave
Miller, our onboard Alaskan guide,
enthusiastically calls out, “Over there!
Wow, he's done it again.”
It's 9:30 at night. In Alaska's time,
however, evening is still day, creating
a low dusky-dawn effect. The whale
again heaves its bulk out of the water
before slapping back down into the
frigid northern waters.
Dave continues, remembering to raise
his microphone so the folks still in
their cabins know we are experiencing
something truly remarkable. No
one's completely sure why humpback
whales enthusiastically perform these
difficult maneuvers, though they are
generally carried out in groups,
perhaps as courting or to stun fish
when feeding. These Frederick Sound
humpbacks made the long journey to
feed in Alaska. They'll migrate back
to warmer waters to mate and give
birth during the winter months.
As the whales fade from sight, we
head back to our cabin after chatting
with Dave, who has been with Cruise
West since 1983. With a degree in
Environmental Science, he teaches
during the winter months and spends
his summers hosting cruises, hiking,
and backpacking. I'm amazed at
his knowledge and insight into this
wilderness and the wildlife that call
this land home.
visitors experience the beauty of Alaska
in a personal way. His son, Richard, is
now at the helm, and the up-close and
friendly atmosphere remains true to his
father's vision. Today, Cruise West has
a fleet of nine small ships that voyage to
Alaska, Costa Rica, Mexico, and the
South Pacific.
Alaska – or Alyeska, the Aleut word
for “great land” – became our 49th
U.S. state in 1959. It was purchased
in 1867 for $7.2 million, or just 2
cents an acre. It is one of only two
states not bordered by another state.
(Hawaii is the other.)
The onboard atmosphere of our ship
was casually communal. With only
100 or so guests on board, we soon
got to know both the crew and our
traveling companions. There are no
formal nights; evening dresses have
been exchanged for blue jeans and
sweaters.
As we sail through these remarkable
waters, it's a bit humbling. The
staggering force of massive glaciers
millions of years ago shaped huge
mountains that now jut from the icy
waters. Carpeted in majestic forests
and home to millions of lakes and
thundering waterfalls, it's the perfect
habitat for bald eagles, sea lions,
moose, bears, mountain goats, and
myriad marine animals.
Our journey through the Inside Passage,
a route between the mainland and the
coastal islands, began a few days earlier
in the gateway city of Ketchikan, the
“Salmon Capital of the World.” There,
we toured the picturesque downtown.
Former homes and brothels during the
gold rush days have been turned into
colorful buildings that now house gift
shops and museums.
Locals and visitors cast lines off the
shore and, to the delight of the crowd,
reel in large salmon. I'm traveling
with my husband, Frank, and 16year-old daughter, Sarah. We were
briefly tempted to rent fishing gear,
but quickly realized we'd have no
place to cook up our trophies.
Instead, we followed the scents of a
wood fire and lunched leisurely on
smoked salmon and chowder in the
warm Alaskan sun.
We reboard the ship, one of many
vessels in the Cruise West line founded
by Chuck West, who pioneered Alaska
tourism more than 60 years ago. He
created a fleet of small ships, letting
www.aaaminneapolis.com
Since the ship is small, our captain is
able to steer us to the best vantage
point for viewing. When a brown
bear is spotted, he hugs the shoreline.
When we near a pod of whales, he
navigates to safely follow their path.
Each morning, we wake to yet
another spectacular location. On
this particular morning, I look out to
see a majestic haze covering the gentle
waters of Misty Fjords and massive,
steep-sided mountains flanking the
sides of the ship. We're sailing
through tranquil Tongass National
Forest, which covers 80 percent of
Southeast Alaska.
The ship docks at Metlakatla on
Annette Island, the native home of
Tsimshian Indians. Today, their
descendants carry on their rich culture
and proud heritage.
As we are treated to a traditional
dance by Alaska Natives, a young boy
approaches. “’Dseen,” he says shyly
in Tsimshian. “Welcome.”
Totem poles dot the landscape in
Metlakatla. These intricate works
of art each tell a story or relate a
significant event, the details carved
out in sections on the totem.
Along the Inside Passage, the shores
are filled with small villages, all
celebrating a flavorful diversity of
geographical roots. The small fishing
town of Petersburg is known as
21
did you know
“Little Norway.” The residents
celebrate their past with traditional
Norwegian food, dance, and artistry.
As we sail inland, emerald-green waters
are accented by brilliant blue chunks of
ice (called “bergie bits”), a sure sign
we're nearing the Sawyer Glaciers.
These two remarkable glaciers lay at
the end of Tracy Arm, a 25-mile fjord
marked by chiseled granite cliffs and
cascading mountain-high waterfalls.
The captain maneuvers us closer just as
a thunderous crack breaks the silence
and a huge chunk of ice crashes into
the water (called calving), sending spray
hundreds of feet in the air. Dozens of
birds, relaxing amiably on the ice,
scatter into the air. Then there's silence
again, except for the rapid-fire clicking
of cameras. We pause for a moment.
The glacier, as if alive, is creaking and
groaning, seemingly ready for another
great shedding into the sea.
We journey on to explore more of
Tracy Arm and are treated to an
amazing display of humpbacks and
orcas cavorting, breaching, and
blowing – many surprisingly close to
the bow – that seem to bid us welcome.
The ship slows as we pass mountain
goats nibbling on the sheer peaks of the
granite cliffs. A brown bear bats at the
water onshore, looks up momentarily
at our passing, and then goes back to
the business of lunch. We sail past a
laid-back sea otter and his buddy
floating on a chunk of ice. Alaska's
wonders never seem to cease.
The next day, we sail through Glacier
Bay National Park and Preserve, part
of the 24 million-acre World Heritage
Site, the largest internationally
protected area in the world. More
than a dozen active glaciers flow
from the Fairweather and St. Elias
Mountain ranges, with peaks rising
more than 15,000 feet.
the largest sea lions, weighing in at
1,800 pounds and measuring up to
11-feet-long.
Colorful horned puffins share the
shoreline with brown and black bears,
mountain goats, and moose. The
day is peaceful; the beauty serene.
I breathe in the setting, capturing the
memory of this experience.
Another morning brings a new
adventure as we explore the seaside
town of Skagway, the original starting
point for many early gold seekers.
“Gold!” headlines ran in 1897, starting
the rush. Thousands, hoping to ease the
woes of economic depression, sold farms
and businesses, and boarded ships to
follow their dreams north. They braved
icy passes to reach the interior of
Canada, only to find many of the gold
claims staked by prospectors who
preceded them. A few struck gold,
many more returned home penniless.
The town of Skagway has restored
some of the original buildings, and it
is a quaint reminder of headier days.
ALASKA’S NATIVE HERITAGE
Nearly 20 percent of Alaska’s 650,000 residents (about
130,000 people) are Native or have Native descent.
There was a time, however, when the territory was
dominated by their indigenous cultures. Today, as the
state continues to grow in population and diversity,
Alaska’s Natives are working diligently on educating
others on the state’s first peoples.
Guided by their Mission Statement, the Alaska Native
Heritage Center in Anchorage works on “[s]haring,
perpetuating, and preserving unique Alaska Native
cultures, languages, traditions, and values through
celebration and education.” This task not only involves
educating residents and visitors through workshops,
demonstrations, and interactive exhibitions, they also
strive for cross-cultural exchanges among Alaska’s
cultural Native groups – the Aleut Athabascan (Interior
Indians); Tlingit and Haida (both Coastal Indians); Inupiat
(Northern Eskimos); and Yupik (Southern Eskimos).
Despite the many Native languages, creeds, and
philosophies, the Heritage Center builds on the groups’
common goals, values, and challenges in order to
continue the cycle of knowledge that has perpetuated
their societies for hundreds of generations.
photo courtesy of Cruise West
Our final port is Haines, and we book
a small raft to float down the Chilkat
River to view eagles. Thousands of
majestic birds migrate to the Chilkat,
where they spend the winter feeding
on salmon. In summer, many remain,
and scores of eagles can be seen
perched in the trees and stumps along
the shoreline.
Our final evening on ship, we dine
with our fellow cruisers, now friends.
We all lament a bit about the
journey's end when we hear a familiar
voice: “Everyone, there's a pod of
whales on our port side!” Dave
beckons us to join him on deck.
KETCHIKAN
colorfully painted houses in the old port city
Many consider the Sawyer Glaciers
two of the most beautiful in Alaska.
The striking blue color is created by
the density of the ice, which absorbs
all the colors of the spectrum except
blue, which is reflected. The soft light
that filters over snowcapped peaks
creates a stunning view.
22
The mountains create a dramatic
backdrop for the beautiful scenery
below of coastal islands and narrow
fjords. Throughout the day, eagles
soar overhead and we pass by dozens
of sea lions soaking up sun on Marble
Island. Named for their lion-like roar
and a thick mane-like ruff, they are
Home & Away – December 2008
We run upstairs to the sight of dozens
of whales swimming alongside the
ship. One breaches and a roar goes
up. We smile and say a few farewells
– not only to our friends, but also to a
land we've grown to love.
Sandy Klim is editor-in-chief of AAA’s
Going Places Magazine.
www.aaaminneapolis.com
23
cruising
you, and will also be a liaison to
answer any questions you might have
along the way.
photo courtesy of Carnival Cruise Line
Furthermore, your agent can help
you find the best possible price.
Some people tend to think that a
cruise is expensive but, when you
compare costs, cruising is almost
always a better value. While there
may be more expenses going in
(meals, entertainment, and
sightseeing), a cruise often works
out to be the better deal.
SETTING SAIL 101
a primer for first-time cruisers
by Jeff Brown
GETTING THERE
I
f you’ve never been on a cruise before, why not? It’s
really not that complicated to plan or that expensive,
especially if you keep these tips in mind when planning
your first cruise.
STARTING OFF
Cruising is not one-ship-fits-all. Think about what you
liked about your previous vacations and apply that to
your cruise planning. For instance, if you’re looking to
party, consider a Carnival cruise for a Las Vegas-at-sea
atmosphere; Holland
America ships, on the other
hand, tend toward a calmer,
relaxing ambiance.
DON’T FORGET
It’s more challenging choosing
• Pack copies of your
a destination. Warm locales
passport and driver’s license,
like the Caribbean, Bahamas,
separate from the actual
Hawaii, and Mexico are
items, for emergencies.
always popular, but cooler
destinations, such as Alaska,
• It’s never comfortable to
Canada, and New England,
put a wet swimsuit back
attract plenty of cruisers,
on; bring more than one,
too. River cruising is also
so that you can leave the
an emerging option.
wet one drying.
before you go
• A cheap plastic watch
is perfect for the beach
or pool, with no real harm
if it gets wet.
24
That said, don‘t cut costs so much
that it affects your experience. This
often comes into play when choosing
a cabin. Smaller interior rooms are
the cheapest option but, if your
budget allows, consider a balcony
or outside cabin.
Work with your travel agent
to sort out all the details.
An agent will ask questions
to try to get a good idea of
what experience is right for
While the majority of cruises depart
from traditionally popular ports like
Miami, an increasing number of ships are now sailing
from other harbors. New York City, Boston, Baltimore,
and Philadelphia have seen rapidly growing numbers of
travelers coming through their ports, with ships heading
north to Canada, south to the Caribbean and Bermuda,
and even across the Atlantic to Europe.
Regardless of where you debark, have the proper
identification. Your travel agent will confirm what
documents are needed based on your itinerary. That
said, a passport is the easiest document to travel with,
so having an up-to-date one is a good idea.
DAY TRIPPING
Examine the shore excursions available at the ports of
call on your itinerary. Nearly every cruise line will offer
several different activities at each stop, featuring all
manner of tours and activities.
While these options are not always included in the cost
of the cruise, shore excursions are a good way to see the
destination. Prices can range from just a few dollars for
a brief tour of the town, to hundreds (or even thousands)
of dollars for exotic outings, like a helicopter ride to the
top of a mountain. Most cruise lines offer detailed
information about their excursions online, as well as
the opportunity to book them in advance.
Besides the cruise lines, many other companies advertise
excursions aimed at cruisers. These may be cheaper
than the cruise line’s offerings, but buyer beware; if
Home & Away – December 2008
something goes wrong, like your tour bus breaks down
and can’t get you back to the ship on time, the boat
won’t wait for you if you’re not on a cruise linesponsored excursion.
Of course, if you want to relax, plenty of cruisers skip
the excursions entirely, preferring just to lie on the beach
or stroll through shops located near the port.
GETTING READY TO GO
When packing, remember that you’re essentially staying in
a floating hotel, which will provide towels and some basic
toiletries. Pack your most important items (including
travel documents, any medication, and a change of
clothes) in a small carry-on bag in case your checked
baggage is slow arriving to your cabin. (This is also
important if you are flying to the port, on the off chance
that your luggage gets delayed or lost by the airline.)
Almost every ship’s guidelines call for casual-wear during
the day. That means jeans or shorts, or even swimwear,
depending on the weather. Don’t forget a cover-up for
those swimsuits while walking to/from the pool.
Depending on the cruiseline, evenings can be a little
dressier; no jeans or shorts are allowed at dinner. If
your ship’s schedule includes one or more formal nights,
remember to pack accordingly; on most ships, a cocktail
dress for ladies and a dark suit for men will suffice.
DON’T TIP OVER (OR UNDER)
One of the most confusing parts of the cruise can be
tipping – who gets what, when, and how much?
Cruise lines usually offer a list of suggested gratuities,
with about $100 per person per week usually sufficient
covering the wait staff, cabin attendant, and others.
FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD
Cruisers have never had more options when it comes to
food. Generally speaking, meals (even room service) are
included in the price of the cruise. Most ships offer a
casual buffet that is open nearly all day, plus a dining
room with plenty of daily entrée options and slightly
more formal arrangements for dinner.
Many newer cruise ships also offer alternative dining.
These onboard restaurants are a little more upscale and
may offer a little better service, but cost extra, averaging
around $20 per person per meal.
This primer should be enough to get you started.
Now all you have to do is have a bon voyage!
Jeff Brown is former editor of AAA World Magazine.
www.aaaminneapolis.com
25
U.S VIRGIN ISLANDS
paradise found
by Sandy Klim
I
stepped into the salt-scented air of St. Croix. My
fellow travelers were a blend of locals, tourists, and those
wanting to be locals. Like most Caribbean islands, time
moves slower here. As I waited for my bags to make their
way along the well-worn carousel, a chap to my left had
taken a seat on a randomly placed folding chair. He
sipped a complimentary mai-tai (rum is big here, as in
most Caribbean islands) and chatted that this trip was
the fulfillment of a dream to live in the U.S. Virgin Islands
(U.S.V.I). He was here to buy a home for his retirement
and St. Croix was his island of choice.
did you know
DRIVING IN THE U.S.V.I.
Vehicles are driven on the
left side of the road (the
only U.S. possession
where this occurs). This
law is based upon the
Danish practice at the time
of the islands’ annexation.
This proves problematic
to many – with most cars
imported from the U.S.,
the steering wheel is on
the left (instead of on the
right, as it is placed in
England, for example).
26
It's much easier to purchase
homes, live, and work here,
since residents are citizens
of the U.S. As a territory,
locals enjoy many U.S.
rights and governmental
services, such as postal
service. The U.S.V.I. also
offers a culturally diverse
and ethnically rich society
whose heritage originates
from Africa, England,
Holland, Denmark, Spain,
France, India, and, of
course, the States.
There are three main U.S.
Virgin Islands – St. Croix,
St. Thomas, and St. John,
although you'll find smaller islands and more than 50
small islets and cays. Each island is distinct, but all
share the benefit of clear azure waters that lap pristine
sun-kissed beaches. Add in beautiful national parks,
duty-free shopping, hiking, fine dining, and nightlife,
and you've got the makings of a lively vacation – all
at a very reasonable price.
ST. CROIX
St. Croix's mountainous landscape is lush with tropical
foliage, seemingly unchanged since Christopher
Columbus first ventured ashore more than 500 years
ago. Today, visitors find colorful shops and fine
restaurants housed in old Danish-built structures that
line the island's wide streets.
There are two main cities on St. Croix – the waterfront
towns of Frederiksted and Christiansted – and both
share beautiful 18th-century European architecture.
Christiansted, on the east side, packs in a lot of history,
so be prepared to spend time exploring the fort and
surrounding buildings. The imposing yellow-brick Fort
Christiansvaern still stands sentry over Christiansted
Harbor, although pirates no longer roam the nearby
waters. When caught plundering the island's ports,
foreign invaders were housed beneath the building.
There's an immediate sense of claustrophobia in these
small, dank dungeons that is further enhanced by the
panoramic views above. The fort has been restored
and is now a National Historic site.
Home & Away – December 2008
The tradition of making rum on St. Croix is carried on
by the Nelthropp family at the Cruzan Rum distillery.
A free tour is offered daily. The pungent aroma of
steaming molasses and yeast is a paradox, given the
sweet concoctions that result in this world-famous rum.
Once the mixture has boiled, fermented, and distilled to
a clear liquid, it's stored in crafted oak barrels for an
aging process of two to 12 years. The whole process
can be viewed from start to finish, culminating in a free
sample in their guest area – or pu