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welcome to my paint booth turned woodshop as you can see this place is in quite the state of disarray now that's because he is lazy yes yes that is true but also because it's been too stinkin hot in here the only time I spend out here doing any real work is when it's nighttime or otherwise cool outside and soon it's going to be winter so it'll be too cold to work in here and frankly I'm tired of these problems so today I'm going to solve these problems by installing this pioneer mini-split heat pump for my air conditioning and my heating and I'm going to show you how to install one as well full disclosure pioneer did not sponsor this video but they did send me this 9,000 BTU unit at no cost anyway on with the video first things first everything needs to be unpacked pioneer mini-split shipped via Freight on a pallet like you see here there are three boxes one for the refrigerant piping and ancillary x' one for the outside unit and one for the inside unit make sure you check the outside units box for any accessories you may have ordered the pallet consists of everything you see here the box containing the refrigerant piping the drain hose for the condensation off the indoor unit some mounting screws some extra flare nuts a downspout connector for the condensation coming off the outside unit remote batteries some leak guard for the refrigerant piping the indoor unit remote the indoor unit remote holder some paperwork and of course the indoor unit itself not pictured here is the outside unit because that's outside also contained in the refrigerant piping box aside from the refrigerant of piping itself is the signal cable that goes from the inside to the outside unit a protective pipe sleeve to put in the wall to insert your pipes and everything through I'm gonna need a longer pipe than this some putty to seal up that hole in the wall and a very high-quality condensation drain pipe the first thing I decided to tackle was mounting the outside unit I chose this location for mounting my unit because it's just on the other side of the wall from the indoor unit which reduces the amount of piping I need it's on the north side of the building so it's never in direct sunlight and there's a concrete slab below it on which to mount the unit solidly one downside of this spot is as near my shop door but the outside unit isn't very loud so this doesn't bother me at all because the concrete below my unit was far from level I chose to mount the unit on concrete blocks I leveled up the concrete blocks by mounting them on a squishy base of quick-set mortar the mortar base allowed me to make each block level and planer with the other block it also gave the blocks of solid attachment to the concrete below them unfortunately this mortar set in 15 minutes which made me feel very rushed there are several different options for mounting the outdoor unit this is just the way that worked for me in this situation for the two other mini splits on my shop I mounted the outside units on wall mounts that are anchored to the concrete foundation it's just whatever works best for you all you have to do is make sure the unit is solidly a fixed level and at least 12 inches away from the building unless you're mounting them on a wall mount it's pretty hard to get the unit 12 inches away from the wall it's mounted too and once my blocks were leveled and mortared in place and the mortar had set I bolted the unit down with some sleeve anchor the next thing I tackled because I was going in no particular order it was the wiring for the outside unit first of all I should note that I am NOT a trained electrician and I'm doing my own wiring at my own risk I'm taking my life into my own hands etc etc you can hire an electrician if you want I'm not the boss of you anyway the wiring to the outside unit is all you have to worry about the only wiring for the inside unit is the signal cable that runs between the outside and inside unit for the outside unit I ran the power through an AC disconnect box as that's the standard thing to do I don't know if it was strictly necessary but I also chose a fused disconnect box the fuses are rated at 15 amps because that's what my unit called for check your local laws for disconnect box fuse requirements I mean I didn't but it seems like a good thing to say my unit is 240 volts and calls for a 15 amp breaker so I'll be using this two pole 15 amp breakers but first off with the kilise a P power and on with the tiny pathetic LED light that I'll be using now to turn everything on I of course left the breaker to the unit off at this point to avoid an early death I'll flip it on later when I want to actually turn on the unit now it's time to begin mounting the indoor unit the mounting plate for the indoor unit comes pre-installed on the back of the unit as you can see here there is one little retaining screw that you have to take off before you can just unclip it then it just nicely unclips from the back and you can use this obviously to mount the indoor unit just mount this plate on the wall and it'll and oriental just slot into place mount the indoor unit anywhere you'd like just make sure the mounting bracket is level in the unit is at least six inches below the ceiling i mounted mine arbitrarily in the middle of the room and then i changed my mind and arbitrarily mounted it about a foot lower than before just because i felt like it looked a little bit better just a little bit lower the next thing I want to do is connect the signal cable to the inside of this mini-split to snake the signal cables through to the front you just go through the back here right there you sneak through the back connect everything up here one end of the signal cable has pin connectors the other has u-shaped connectors the pin connector end is what goes into the indoor unit and that's the signal cable connected to the indoor unit which color you match to which number doesn't matter as long as you match them in the exact same order on the outdoor unit I'm gonna be taking a picture of this so I remember when I go to wire up the outside unit right next is the piping you have three different ways to route the piping outside of the indoor unit you can knock out this knock out over here and have the piping come straight out you can have the piping come straight through the wall behind the unit which is what I'm gonna do or you can do the least recommended way which is to knock out this knock out bend the pipe a full 180 and have it come out this side of the unit that way isn't highly recommended because it requires you to bend the pipe a full 180 and there's a bit of a risk of the pipe bending breaking or kinking in some way because you have to bend it so far over since I'm gonna have my pipe and go straight back through the wall it's gonna Bend that up and then wrap the drain hose and the signal cable all together so I can go ahead and mount the unit then it's time to drill the two-and-a-half inch inside hole for the piping to fit through to locate the outside hole I'm just going to be using this stupidly long aircraft drill bit and because the outside hole needs to be lower than the inside hole I'm going to be drilling the center of the outside hole at the bottom of this inside hole and the reason the outside hole needs to be lower is because the piping needs to go through the wall at a downward angle to allow for proper drainage from the air conditioner now to drill the outside hole using the pilot hole I just drilled with the aircraft drill bit as the center to shield the pipes as they go through the wall pioneer provides you this little piece of plastic pipe with a nice little flange on the end and this works just fine but it's too short for the thickness of my wall so I'm not going to be using it instead I'm going to be using this bit of schedule for the electrical conduit that I cut down to size that fits perfectly in the hole and reaches to the other side it even has this nice bit of flare on the end to keep it from being pushed through the wall as I'm shoving pipes into it unfortunately the foam insulation tape i bundled everything together with had too much friction inside the pipe causing it to get jammed in there so I had to take it all off now everything slides freely tada he is up with the indoor unit piping routed outside the next thing I want to do is connect the signal cable and the line power to the outdoor unit again when connecting the signal cable make sure to match the color number the exact same way you did on the indoor unit in my case I did red green white black although I see that green was quite obviously supposed to be the ground cable and doesn't - doesn't matter too much once I get it matched to the indoor unit nothing matters and the black line on the signal cable I have as my ground l1 and l2 here just the two line wires if this was a 110 unit it would be the line in neutral wires easy enough and unless we put the strain relief back into place because I'm procrastinating connecting the scary refrigerant hoses I'm going to go ahead and connect the drain pipe for condensation out of the air conditioner the next step is finally to connect the refrigerant piping the first step is to take the end caps off the refrigerant lines coming out of the indoor unit now don't be alarmed when it hisses the indoor unit does come shipped pre charged with nitrogen so it will make a Russian air rushing sound when you take these end caps off scared me the first time that's for sure I thought I had done something bad and since the lines are pressurized with nitrogen the end caps can and will pop off when you unscrew them it isn't necessary but I stood off to the side when unscrewing the end cap so they wouldn't hit me when they flew off they don't hurt I'm just easily startled yep there we go now that the pressure is gonna let's just take this other end cap off and be less jumpy because there's not going to be a pressure to make it pop off at me now that we're out here you can see why I wanted the refrigerant pipes that come straight out the back of the indoor unit it's so I can mount the refrigerant pipes screw them in place outside as opposed to connecting the refrigerant pipes to the unit before mounting it to the wall the alternative would have been to connect the refrigerant pipes to the unit before mounting the indoor unit to the wall so you have to finagle this hose through the wall while you're holding the indoor unit and it's just a massive pain I had to do that with my two other mini splits that I mounted in my shop and it was just a massive pain this is much easier another pipe connection option is to mount the indoor unit to the wall and then drive a wedge behind it like it illustrates in the manual this allows you to connect the piping to the back of it while it's mounted to the wall but this method is not ideal as you have to work up and under the unit and tighten the pipe fittings in a very small space really just pick whatever method works best for you in your situation now take the end caps off of refrigerant piping we can connect this to that this is exciting now before connecting the pipes I need to apply this applied the leak guard to the flare connections just doesn't want to cut at all just take a little bit of it and rub it on the mating surface the copper flare this is where I am admittedly doing things slightly incorrectly you're supposed to use a torque wrench on these flare connections to make sure your torque them down to the proper spec and fortunately that requires an open-end adapter to the torque wrench that I don't possess now there is a risk of over tightening it and there's also a risk of under tightening it with this Byfield method and I have actually under tightened a flare fitting before when installing a planer unit which caused a $500 recharge fee when all the refrigerant leaked out of it so do this at your own risk it would be easier to get an open end attachment to a torque wrench but I'm short-sighted and I forgot to do that and I connect the refrigerant hose on the bottom on the outside unit you could just hire an HVAC guy to do this stuff for you but I'm doing it myself for wanting to show you how to do it but also because I'm cheap and again I need to apply a leak guard to the mating surfaces smear that around connect the bits together yeah get everything good and smash down make sure to brace the valve body here another wrench again I should be using a torque wrench here but I'm not do as I say not as I do etc etc yeah click my blood vessel started popping out so that's my torque setting I guess now for the fun part drawing the vacuum on these lines to release the refrigerant into the indoor unit the outdoor unit comes pre charged all you have to do really is release the refrigerant into the lines and into the indoor unit but first you have to draw a vacuum on it and this step always makes me nervous so I'm going to follow the instructions verbatim and just take you along with me for the pipe evacuation step you'll need a vacuum pump and manifold gage made for r410a and a 5/16 to 1/4 inch service port adapter for connecting the manifold gage to the unit I'll provide Amazon links in the description to the tools I'm using connect the blue low side hose of the manifold gage to the service port on the outdoor units gas side valve and the gas side is the large diameter so the lower one here now it's important to note that this operates via a Schrader valve here so you just have connected really quickly to revenge any refrigerant excess refrigerant from leaking out some will leak out when you connect this nope I'm an idiot what I meant to say was some refrigerant will leak out when you disconnect this fitting no refrigerant leaks out when you first connect it because there isn't any refrigerant in the lines yet that's what this whole step is about is putting refrigerant in the lines connect the yellow middle hose from the manifold gauge to the vacuum pump open the blue low-pressure valve of the manifold gauge keep the red high-pressure elf closed turn the vacuum pump on to start evacuating the air from the line set and indoor unit circuits run the vacuum pump for at least 15 minutes all right [Music] I will now use this 15 minutes to contemplate the meaning of life all right the 15 minutes is up I do not yet know what the meaning of life is but I do know if this next step is and that's to close the blue side of the manifold gauge I turn the vacuum pump off and the next step is equally exciting wait for five minutes then check that there has been no rise in the low pressure gauge reading so more waiting all right five minutes is up and that needle has not moved at all so more than likely there is no leak so I can move on to the next step unscrew the cap from the liquid side service valve which is the small diameter one unscrew the cap then insert a hexagonal wrench into the service valve liquid side which is the small diameter one and open the valve by turning the wrench a 1/4 in a one-quarter counterclockwise turn listen for the sound of gas exiting the system then close the valve after five seconds this is another leak check step open it by a quarter turn for five seconds you can't hear it on camera here but you can definitely hear the sound of refrigerant rushing into the lines during this step five and close now I just need to watch the manifold gauge which is now risen to a positive pressure for a few minutes to make sure that it's not leaking out if you have one of those refrigerant leak sniffer tools now would be the time to use it to check for leaks alternatively you can also use soapy water on the connections to check for leaks I didn't do either one of these things but pretend I did if you do happen to find a leak refer to your manual and panic while I'm waiting for that I'm gonna go ahead and connect the drain downspout to the bottom of the outdoor unit because I forgot to do it earlier it's gonna take a section of the drain hose from the indoor unit off go ahead and stick this with the rubber seal underneath the outside unit if I can find the port there it is downspout is connect to cated only use this drain connector if your Union is elevated off the slab or mounted on a wall all right it's been a few minutes and has that needle going down at all let me check the reference photo I took looks like it's right on the money or where it was before so I'm gonna go ahead and say it's not leaking using a hexagonal wrench fully open both the liquid and gas pressure valves remove the charge chose from the service port and tighten the valve caps on all three valves open up this one first all the way and then open up the gas site now let's disconnect the service hose and again some refrigerant will leak out of this because it's a Schrader valve just have to do it real quickly that was far from quick and I may have burned my hand slightly right let's examine what I did wrong here first of all I screwed the manifold connection on too far this meant I had to spend more time unscrewing it which allowed more refrigerant to escape than was necessary secondly I should have worn gloves like I said some refrigerant will always escape during the step so I should have been wearing gloves to begin with refrigerant miss em out of the way it's time to flip the breaker on and try this puppy out flipping the breaker now let's turn it on now this is a 9,000 BTU unit so it's incredibly quiet when it's on let's turn down the air conditioning mode let's turn it way down to 65 something ridiculous and if I didn't already mention that this doubles as a heater it's a reversible heat pump so it does heating and cooling which is very exciting yeah that's that's cold that's proper cold now that's awesome I have an air conditioner the very last thing I did was clean it down all the pipes and connections running to the outdoor unit to keep them from flopping around the breeze and then I jammed some of that supplied putty into the end of the pipe hole to keep it sealed up and that's it it's installed and running and listen to how loud it isn't and that's what the fan turned to max this is how loud it is at its loudest it's another run one of the reasons I love these units is because they're so dadgum quiet also I tested it I turned the temperature all the way down to test the air conditioner let it run like that for about 15 minutes and then I cranked the temperature all the way up to test the heat and it pumped out some pretty good heat this thing works supremely well and I didn't screw up the installation this time if you should have any installation questions that weren't answered by this video don't hesitate to call pioneers so court line because it is excellent I used it myself when I installed my first PI named Randy split I've learned some questions arose and they answered all of my questions with ease they really know what they're talking about and they have very good communication skills they were even too nice to tell me that my questions were stupid so that's it my wood shop is now climate-controlled I can now spend long periods of time out here at a comfortable set temperature no matter what it's doing outside maybe I can actually start getting some things done now it's just too bad I'm still lazy oh well thank you for watching