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Add visitor zip

hi I'm Lisa comfort from so over it and I'm going to show you how to insert regular zip into a closed theme I'm going to put it into this piece of fabric here but this technique can be used for cushions bags and also skirts make sure that the top of the zip is lined up in the right way according to the seam allowance that you're using so if it's one of our patterns so the intro to dress making full circle pattern it needs to be centimeter and a half from the top just in front of the metal bit here what I'm going to do is put a little snip just in front through both the fabric and also the zip tape then we're going to put the zip to one side and we are going to stitch the seam closed ready for the zip so we're going to start with a long stitch all the way down and when we get to our snip we're going to change back to a normal stitch length and we're going to do our back stitching as you would at the beginning of a seam all the way to the end and then our back stitching again you can see the long stitch here then at this point level with the notch we've changed to the regular stitch length and gone and done our reverse and then regular stitch length and in the reverse at the end okay so this is my pressed open seam and now I'm going to take the zip and place it face down on to the back of the seam I've got my little snip here to help me line up with where my stitch length changes and then just making sure that it's sitting centrally along the seam and if there is any bit of fabric poking out from the seam allowance that it's the same on both sides then we're going to flip it over and we're going to pin on one side with pins going upwards and on the other side they're going to be going downwards and that's all because of the direction of the sewing so we're going to be sewing down on one side and then coming across and setting back up on the other side and you want your pins to be nice and easy to whip out as just sewing so if the head is paper facing you then you can just pull as you go the bottom pin that's marking where the snotch is we need to still have that in the fabric we want to be able to take it out easily when we're sewing so we're going to take it out can see where the pin was and pop it back in again so that we can easily take that out when we get to it and then the remaining pins on the back we need to take those out as well now we're going to sew that on so we're going to put the zip foot on the machine and I'm going to start sewing from the top left hand side so I'm going to make sure that I put this on with the right hand side of the presser foot open so that I can get nice and close to the zip the widest part of the zip is the chunky slider bit so that determines the width of the sewing because if you start sewing to narrow at the beginning you'll then have to come out and you'll get a sort of bulk bit there and you won't have a nice straight line so what I recommend doing is tucking it under when you're level with the chunky slider and then at that point just slide it back try not to remove so that you keep the position and then that's the width that I'm going to sew the zip in now there isn't anything for you to follow as a guideline if you want to you can actually draw a line on but I think it's better just to try and sew straight as you can visualizing something so I visualize the straight part of the seam and the flat edge there and I'm looking at that distance and trying to keep that distance the same the fabric on top can stretch but the zip tape card so if you try and reduce that if you try and stretch it out and hold it as best tight as you can that will keep keep it as flat as possible but if you do get a little ripple just allow it to come through and follow the way down so don't stitch in a pleat just allow the ripple to come down so I'm coming to my horizontal pin that marks where the stitch length changes so I'm going to take that out but I can still see where it was and it's important to still see where it was and at that point well we're going to stop we're going to put the needle in by turning the hand wheel towards us and then lifting up the presser foot and pivoting round and then low the presser foot back down we're now going to stitch over and across the zip and it will go over it but you might need to give it a little pull from behind or a little push and then you want to stop in the same place on the other side so I'm going to pull that pin out lift up and then you start stitching at the other side and then at the top you're just reversing in the normal way okay so then take a stitch and pick up and you just insert it into the scene and making sure you are catching the stitches and not the fabric you can then go wee all the way up and pick all of it it's very satisfying and like magic the zip appears and you can take all these little bits out and there you have a neatly inserted regular zip where both edges are perfectly meeting in the middle