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Your step-by-step guide — anneal countersign order
Employing airSlate SignNow’s eSignature any organization can accelerate signature workflows and eSign in real-time, providing an improved experience to consumers and staff members. anneal countersign order in a couple of simple actions. Our mobile apps make working on the move feasible, even while offline! eSign documents from any place worldwide and close up deals in less time.
Keep to the stepwise guideline to anneal countersign order:
- Log on to your airSlate SignNow account.
- Find your needed form in your folders or import a new one.
- Access the document and edit content using the Tools menu.
- Place fillable fields, type textual content and eSign it.
- Add several signees using their emails and set up the signing sequence.
- Indicate which recipients can get an executed copy.
- Use Advanced Options to reduce access to the template and set up an expiration date.
- Press Save and Close when done.
Additionally, there are more advanced capabilities available to anneal countersign order. List users to your shared workspace, view teams, and keep track of teamwork. Millions of customers all over the US and Europe recognize that a solution that brings everything together in one unified digital location, is the thing that businesses need to keep workflows performing easily. The airSlate SignNow REST API enables you to integrate eSignatures into your app, website, CRM or cloud. Check out airSlate SignNow and enjoy faster, easier and overall more productive eSignature workflows!
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FAQs
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How do you countersign?
Suggested clip How to Countersign the Application Form and Photo - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clip How to Countersign the Application Form and Photo - YouTube -
What does it mean to countersign a document?
Countersigning means writing a second signature onto a document. For example, a contract or other official document signed by the representative of a company may be countersigned by his supervisor to verify the authority of the representative. -
What is a countersigned lease?
A countersignature is an additional signature that is placed on a document after it has already been signed. It is a way to provide authentication and confirmation. ... Most all contracts will have two signatures on them. The first party will read the agreement and sign if they are willing to take on the terms. -
What does it mean to countersign a check?
Countersigning means adding a signature to a document that has previously been signed by someone else. The purpose of countersigning a check is usually to cash it or to deposit it. -
Can you deposit someone else's check in your account?
You can deposit a check made out to someone else in your own bank account if the payee endorses the check over to you. They will need to write \u201cPay to\u201d on the back of the check and sign it. ... Some banks will accept such a check only if the payee is present when it is deposited, so they can verify their ID. -
How do you countersign a passport photo?
Once the person has agreed to countersign your passport photo, it's simple. All they have to do is write on the back of the photo the following: \u201cI airSlate SignNow that this is a true likeness of [the applicant's title and full name].\u201d With that done all they need to do is provide their signature and the date, and it's done. -
What to do if you can't get anyone to countersign a passport?
If you can't find anyone to do it, send a letter with your application explaining why you are unable to get a countersignature, and forward additional photographic ID such as driving licence.
What active users are saying — anneal countersign order
Anneal countersign order
okay if you're going to emil breasts things you're going to need the heat source I use just a coleman propane bottle with the torch I prefer I don't know if you're going to see this on the camera but I prefer a wider flame instead of more like the pin flame to get heat soaks the middle better you're going to need some way of determining the temperature of the brass some people just go in a dark room and watch for a certain color change I don't like that method I don't believe it's precise enough you can use an infrared infrared thermometer I am I find they're hit or miss because the brass is so shiny sometimes you won't get a reading so what I use is temple stick and temple act this stuff is used at industry it's very accurate and all's it is is basically a paint that's going to burn off or melt off at a certain temperature so I have 700 and 650 and what I'll do is I'll do it on a camera here take the inside of the case turn it on see that just coat it on the mouth inside the mouth of the case and I'll take a little bit of the 650 probably I don't know mark it halfway down the case I really prefer the temple Lac versus the temple stick because this is actually meant for you have something hot and you swipe this across and see if it melts not for marking something because it just comes off chalky does it work for you well I just put a lot on there just to make sure that I'm not getting heat down here on the base of the case softening it because you don't want this part of the case to be soft so you want here to be soft and here to be hard because this sits in the chamber and a portion of this case right here is unsupported by the chamber the bolt face so if you anneal this part and soften it what will happen is it'll lose its ductile strength and it will blow out which is a bad time to give you an example what I'm talking about here some factory brass see if you can notice that there we go now it's focus the color difference but right here so this brass is annealed to about right here which is you know I don't know a little over half maybe 60% of the case so you want this portion of the case to be hard to have low Mally malleability but high ductile strength and you want this to be more malleable with lower ductile strength because what happens is this sits in the chamber like so the firing pin hits the primer it ignites the powder the pressure builds and this portion of the case will expand and create a seal in the chamber preventing gas from leaking back once once that's done after its fired and the pressure has reduced this will actually shrink down so you can extract the case and then resize it just get all these down real quick you so now I've got all these coded something it comes in handy I'm at this is actually I'm using an a what's called an e Torx and number size 18 just because I happen to need a Torx sockets for working on my car you can use like a half inch slack anything at work so a drill that will move in low speed like this one will your heat source and something to catch the hot brass in you can either use like a metal or glass container fill of water if you want to quench right away which is what I'll do or you can just let them air cool I'm aiming the there goes so you're aiming the heat right here order the heat and it will transfer enough to an eel list part into an eel this part and you're just watching the the temple act to see when it melts the stuff does kind of stink you might want to have a fan on Jesus I prefer doing it this way them to use the high speed just let's chance that case flying out of there listen water at night one I like to do it on the inside of the case because you'll know that it's annealed all the way through a lot of times you just put it on the outside it's in direct contact with the flame so it might be melting before the actual brass has reached the recrystallization temperature okay and the second part of the video I just took some up-close recordings with the GoPro just to give you a sort of an idea of what's happening basically what the deal is you're going to aim the flame just below the neck and the shoulder and you're going to want to soften the neck shoulder and the area of the cartridge probably at least one third to half way down the cartridge so while we're watching this video I just want to take a minute to do a little deeper dive and what's going on when we're kneeling brass first of all what is brass brass is a generic term used for an alloy of copper and zinc the most cop the most common alloy for cartridge cases is seventy percent copper thirty percent ten or somewhere near that brass is both a malleable and a in ductile meaning you can easily shape it and it can withstand high strain loads without rupturing brass is also a good conductor of heat or electricity as well as being a low friction metal these characteristics the ability for it to be malleable and ductile the fact that it's a real low friction metal and that it has high heat transference makes it absolutely perfect metal for a cartridge case as brass has worked in other words as we fired in a gun or resizing or dies at work hardens it becomes more and more hard the harder you work it the harder it is the more brittle becomes so if we continue to fire brass or and work hard in our brass eventually what we're going to get is we're going to start getting split necks or casings rupturing in the chamber the solution to this and the way we get more firings and more life out of our brass is something called a kneeling what annealing is is it's a process of metallurgy where you heat it's a heat treatment process for you heat the metal and as we resolve this heating for a certain time in certain temperature the metal becomes soft now the goal in annealing cartridge cases is we're going to use what's called a differential heat treatment that means the one case the one piece the one cartridge case is going to be at different hardnesses it's going to be softer near the mouth and the shoulder the case than it is at the base of the case and the reason for this is if we actually soften the base of the case or the back of the case where it connects you know to the bolt you can actually have that case ruptured during firing which is can be a catastrophic failure so the most important factors in heat treatment or temperature and time now in the case of brass generally brass will anneal at 350 degrees Celsius or about 660 degrees Fahrenheit for between 10 and 30 minutes this all depends on how hard it was to start with and the ratio of the alloy and if there's any other metals in it now we obviously can't do that because if you sit there and you heat the shoulder of the case to 600 degrees because of brass is such a good conductor of heat the heat will travel to the base of the case and will soften that so fortunately what we can do is we can actually up the temperature which reduces the time so if you heat brass to about 7 750 degrees it only needs to be in that temperature for a couple of seconds and it will anneal and that's what we're doing here now I use 700 degree tempo lek and then air dry the brass in my case which has gotten me decent results if you're if you wanted to clinch the brass right away I would probably go to like a 750 temple AK and you or you can use like the temple stick but the lacquer works a lot better for me as far as far as on either use the sticks real chalky doesn't go down really well there's going to be a lot of links and a lot more technical information if you're so inclined in the description of this video you see right here um the base should never get hot and as you seen I'm actually using my fingers to kind of prove a point that you're able to heat that shoulder area and you should still be able to hold on to the base for a couple seconds so here we have some pictures of the finished product you'll notice the top of the case there's some discoloration from the bottom so that shows us that we've heat treated the top portion of the case without heat treating the bottom which is what we're after so these cases will be absolutely safe to fire and we won't get split necks and our neck tension will be nice and consistent
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