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hi i'm jay mcclellan and this is part three in my project to build a travel size cribbage and backgammon board using my cnc router in part one i milled up my stock and i set up my router to route pockets in the backgammon board surface for inlaying in part two i mixed up colored mica powder and epoxy and inlaid the backgammon board surface and if you haven't seen parts one and two you might want to go take a look at those first if you're watching on youtube i'll put a link right up here to to go check those out if you want to in this part 3 i'm going to do special details so i'm going to start with some special detailing on the backgammon board surface to kind of hopefully take it up to the next level and then i'm going to do the cribbage board side i've got text inlay and i've got a kind of an artistic graphic design i'm going to inlay on that side and then i've got a whole bunch of holes to drill on that so i hope you enjoy this and let's get started i went back into fusion 360 and created another tool path for my 132nd inch router bit so i'm going to cut a slot a 32nd of an inch wide and 1 16 inch deep along each of these edges and then i'm going to fill it with gold not real gold of course this is gold colored mica powder but i'm going to once i have the slots cut i'm going to mix up this with epoxy fill those in with gold and i'm aiming for kind of a cloisonne a effect where i've got the the colors as they are with a nice little gold border here you can see the advantage of using these alignment discs because i can just slide the board in and get it very close to where it was originally and it should be accurate enough that i can now machine right along the edges of the points i don't need to cut grooves at the bases of the points because those that edge is going to be covered by the edge of the box it won't be visible now it's time to mix up some epoxy with this gold colored mica powder to inlay the edge lines and because i need such a small amount of epoxy i'm going to use these dispensing syringes rather than weigh it by the weather to measure out by weight and i've got them color-coded red for hardener blue for epoxy to match the colors on the can so i don't get them mixed up just arbitrarily i'm going to make 5 cc of resin and 1 cc of hardener that gives me the 5 to 1 ratio in this case rather than try and weigh out such a tiny amount of powder i'm going to do it by volume and i have my handy 0.33 cc measuring spoon which i think works out to roughly 4 by weight of powder there we go that's all mixed up i do get a lot of brown streaks through it and i think it's just that this color is particularly sensitive to the fluid dynamics of how the mica flakes are oriented in the liquid i do have quite a lot of bubbles so like i did with the other epoxy i'm going to play a propane torch quickly across the surface to warm up this epoxy and hopefully pop those bubbles the gold inlay looked good initially but after i sanded it down it just came out boring it lost its nice metallic sheen and i think the problem is that near the surface of the epoxy the mica flakes align horizontally so it looks metallic but once i sand down into the epoxy i think the mica flakes are aligned more randomly and it just looks dull so at this point i tried several different techniques to try to get the inlay to look good the best technique i found was to use some thinner to dilute the epoxy so that as it cures it shrinks quite a lot and drops down below the level of the wood and then use a top coat of clear epoxy to fill in the groove and as you can see it retains that nice metallic sparkle even after sanding the clear layer on top i routed out the channels on all the boards including my test board removing the previous try so i can try again and this time i cut them only about half a millimeter deep i'm using the number 207 hardener which is designed to work well in thin films and i mixed up 3.3 cc of epoxy resin plus 1cc of the 207 hardener and then i added one cc of denatured alcohol so that works out to roughly 20 percent alcohol by volume which is a pretty high concentration of thinner when mixing epoxy and that should cause a lot of shrinkage when it cures it'll also mean more epoxy gets absorbed into the wood below the slot both of which help drop the level of the surface below the top of the wood now i'll add half a gram of gold mica powder which is roughly seven percent by weight so it's a fairly high concentration of mica powder compared to what i've used before to fill the grooves with epoxy the best technique i've found is to use this flexible it's not a credit card is an old gift card and just kind of spackle it into the grooves with this flexible scraper it goes pretty fast this way and it seems that it feels the best by kind of going across the direction of the grooves and i want to make sure that every groove is really well filled at this point then i scrape the surface to to leave the epoxy at the top of the groove or slightly below here's my gold inlay after i sanded down the surface and you can see that i had just enough shrinkage in the epoxy to drop that inlay below the surface of the wood so that it wasn't affected by the sanding and it preserved the metallic sheen on the gold inlay now i'm applying a thin coat of clear epoxy to fill in the fill in the lines and bring them up just a little bit above the level of the wood and then once that cures i'll sand everything down flush after the clear epoxy cured overnight i sanded all my boards down back down to the level of the wood and so ideally in each of the grooves that i cut and infilled with gold i'll have a layer of clear epoxy on top of the gold you can't really see it right now because i just sanded them so the the surface is uh is not smooth there are a few a few spots if i shine a light over like this there are a few spots i can see that are still shiny where the clear didn't quite fill in the groove all the way for one reason or another and so i'm going to go back over with another small batch of clear epoxy and touch up those little shiny spots i sanded down the game boards to 320 grit and then applied a couple coats of clear polyurethane and i'm pretty happy with the end result the gold edges are pretty good they don't really jump out and and scream gold and that's okay they're a little bit subtle but they've got a nice sparkle to them depending on the angle of the light i've been calling this my test board but i think it came out good enough that i'm just going to use it as another game board so i'm going to make a total of three game boards now i haven't applied the final finish coat to this side because first i need to finish making the cribbage board side so now let's turn our attention to the cribbage board i went back into fusion 360 and created these text elements to mark the start and finish locations on the cribbage board i also created this little drawing of a skunk at the corner here where it's uh 30 points from the finish line in the game of cribbage if you beat an opponent by 30 points or more that's called a skunk and so it's decorated with this little skunk graphic i designed this to be inlaid into the board in two passes one with a black background and then with a white stripe down the middle and i made it so that i can route this with a 132nd inch router bit so i designed the curves so that this 132nd inch circle can slide through the curves all the way so here is roughly how the finished cribbage board should look after i inlay these details this side of the boards will be the outside of the box when the piece is finished and i sanded it up got it all nice and clean and i'm going to apply a clear finish to it before i do anything else i'm going to use a fast drying polyurethane if i were doing a project like this again with epoxy inlay i would do this step before i did anything else get the wood mill to size sand it down and then immediately put some kind of clear sealer on it to prevent epoxy from penetrating into the wood because as i saw on the other side that can carry sometimes carry some of the pigment with it and create a problem that has to be sanded out after applying a fairly uh generous coat of polyurethane and letting it soak in for about five minutes i'm just wiping it down lightly with a cloth now i'll engrave the text using a 30 degree engraving bit and i'm going to run the engraving pass twice just to clean up the edges as much as possible here's a close-up of the text and at this scale you can see some little flaws some irregularities in the thickness of the lines and some little splinters and things but these are really tiny features and once this is inlaid and sanded down i think it's going to look great just to give you a sense of scale the start the word start left to right is approximately 16 millimeters wide so here's how the skunk pocket came out on the cherry board and i'm pretty happy with it you can see a little bit of splintering along the edges but not bad at all and that'll be completely hidden by the epoxy so i'm not worried about that at all these are my three cribbage boards ready to inlay i'm going to inlay the black portion of the skunks and i'm going to inlay the text start and finish on each one and because i can't see the other side i went ahead and labeled the colors i want to use for the start and finish of each one so i don't get them mixed up because i have such a small amount of epoxy in total i'm going to mix up a single batch of epoxy and then just take out a little bit and mix in the different colors and i've already put in my 10 ccs of resin and so then i'll add the two cc's of hardener to make a 12 cc batch i mixed up a little bit of red pigment into some epoxy and i used quite a bit more mica powder a higher percentage of mica powder than i did when i was doing the inlay on the other side i didn't measure it but i can tell i really went kind of heavy on the mica because i want this to stand out a little bit more and i imagine there's bubbles down in the text and so i'm going to kind of stipple it in with this brush hopefully that's helped to get the air out of out of those pockets and it's a little below the surface now so i'll add a little more but i'm trying to be careful not to trap any air as i do to inlay the skunks i'm using a pigment called onyx it's not as you can see a solid black it's got some highlights in it which i think is going to look nice give it a little more texture than just a just a solid black field so for each board i've inlaid the colored text for start and finish and i've also inlayed the outer pocket of the black skunk and just like on the other sides of the boards i'm going to give them a quick shot with a propane torch to help release bubbles i let the epoxy cure overnight and then sanded it down with a 220 grit and it looks pretty good overall i think you can see there's a little bit of bubble right there and in some of the others i had some little bubbles in the epoxy even though i de-gassed it in the vacuum chamber and flashed it with a torch afterward i still got some bubbles here and there but they're not bad and this one kind of shows up white because i just sanded this and it's got some white sanding dust in it but once it's covered with a clear coat that'll pretty much disappear so i'm not worried about that so now it goes back on the cnc to route out the center pocket in which to inlay the white mica for the skunk stripe and this this worked really well it cut really cleanly into the existing epoxy and made a nice clean line so i think that inlay is going to look good so here's the finished channel for the skunk stripe and the mica powder i'm using is is called white pearl it's the same i used to mix with the purple earlier on to lighten it up a bit and now i'll drag this needle tool around along the slot to hopefully free up any bubbles that might be trapped in the slot especially over here on the right where it's fairly narrow and hopefully that in combination with some heat will help release any bubbles might be trapped in the epoxy i sanded the inlay on the cribbage board side and gave it a few coats of polyurethane and i'm happy with how it looks i think it came out nice so all it remains on this side is to drill all the holes uh sand it lightly and then give it a final coat of polyurethane so now it's time to drill the holes and i'll put these back on the cnc i've got a 1 8 inch flat bottomed bit to cut the hole so i'll be drilling flat bottom holes and i'm going to drill them one quarter inch deep [Music] well after drilling 735 holes in my three cribbage boards they're done these will be cut down before they're installed in the box so they're only going to be about this wide in the finished piece and i'm pretty happy with how they came out really there's nothing left to do on the outside except for a light final sanding and a final coat of varnish so that wraps up part three and in part four i'm going to finish the project i still have to dye the wooden game pieces to match the colored epoxy inlay and then i have to build the boxes so i'm going to take these game boards and assemble them into the folding boxes i'm going to use splined miter joints so i'll show you how i cut those it's a great way to build small boxes and stay tuned for part four thanks for watching