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hello photo friends Tom Wilson here with a down-looking perspective of some of the progress that I've made not necessarily on the copying of the records but of the process of copying the records specifically the forms that are used to make the molds the form simply put is the physical structure in which the disk is placed and then the liquid silicone poured over allowed to cure and then the mold deconstructed around the record in such a way that does not torque the record it may sound overly simple but coming up with such a design to not put any stress on the record has taken a few revisions I'm very proud of this revision it's both simple easy to make so some of you at home may feel inspired after watching this video to realize that it can be safe to copy records and hopefully inspire you to try it so I want to give you a little tour of the form and then give you a walkthrough of the process here we have two pieces of styrofoam this is a denser styrofoam insulation but the plain white styrofoam that were more used to seeing works just fine as well this can be cut with either an exacto knife or for 20 or 30 dollars one can purchase a heated knife that's meant for cutting styrofoam and if you're gonna do this more than once or twice it's really worth the money otherwise the the denser foam cuts really well with an exacto knife the the white styrofoam tends to break up a little bit more but it does still work with an exacto knife so the the hole for the record needs to be one inch wider than the record so for a 7-inch record we need an 8 inch hole that gives us half an inch of a gap on either side and that half inch gives us sufficient strength on the edge of the record that the silicon will not tear in handling and use also the styrofoam here used both the white styrofoam in this blue styrofoam or half an inch thick for that exact same reason so we have a minimum thickness up to prevent tearing to pieces and the two pieces are joined together by the screws that you see the silicone rubber is even the low viscosity silicone rubber is still quite a bit more viscous than water so it doesn't tend to seep through too easily it is however a good idea to have some extra screws on hand so if when pouring in the silicone that leakage does occur that those screws can be put in having some soft clay to jam in any hole is also a good idea this silicone typically sets in 15 or 20 minutes and if it's a slow leak that's usually not such a big deal because it'll plug itself up as it cures but back to the design you'll notice here...