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Fax digital sign beholder

hey everybody and welcome back to critical crafting this is Dylan your crafting DM here today I am going to show you all how to make your very own do-it-yourself beholder I'm pretty excited I hope you guys are too [Music] for this project you're going to need a plastic skull as well as some green stuff some soldering wire some clear acrylic rods some little glass eyes big glass eye and some paints I'm gonna go over each of these products in depth as we go through the video and if you need to get any of these there will be links for the products in the description below the eye is kind of the centerpiece for the beholder so the first thing I do is map out where it's gonna go I'm using a paint brush to trace around the glass eye then I use my exacto knife to cut the plastic away green stuff is kind of the bread and butter from making this beholder so when you're using this it has two parts you blend the two of them together just by squishing them with your hands until you get that nice green consistency on the right once that's done you can fill in the eyes and start building an eyebrow with little kind of rolled pieces and then blend them on to the beholder I like to use a wooden tool or clay tools to create texture here I'm building up what's going to be his gum so I put a little thin piece of green stuff on there and then use a clay or wooden tool to make little dumb shapes I do the same to tweak the little eye lid that I've made here yeah to make the teeth I roll small sort of pyramid shaped pieces of the green stuff and then I just press them in I use small tools or even my exacto knife to reshape them and make them look like they're supposed to because I'm building on top of the skull I don't really have to worry about that Anatomy which is one of the nice things of building on top but I can make some cool little wrinkles and other little shapes that make him look pretty cool just by adding texture green stuff can be a little bit thick and tacky to work with which is why I really like using the clay modeling tools and I'll link those in the description below also if you find it's a little sticky just apply some water and that will help the more wrinkles bumps and other weird texture yet of the beholder the better it's gonna look at the end here I'm making the spines for the side of the head and essentially this is just a large sort of pyramid shape that I squeeze together and then use my tool to press the sides in you gotta add the eye stalks and to do this I take my exacto knife and kind of use it like a drill just sticking it in and swirling it around so that I can fit the soldering wire into those spots to make my eye socks I'm using one point six millimeter soldering wire which is pretty easy to cut with wire cutters I snip those two about two inch lengths but you can do whatever length you want and put those pieces that have cut into the skull in stuff stays pretty flexible for an hour to two hours so I'm actually gluing the jaw in place with hot glue to make sure it doesn't wiggle too much next I'm gonna take a little bit of that green stuff and I'm gonna stick it on to the soldered wire so this is what's going to serve as is I stock tendril I'd only do is pinch that around and then sort of roll it together so that I have a nice smooth texture then as usual I blend that in with my tool now to add in the tiny eyes these are the Julie weighing 8 millimeter 100 piece mix style dragon I round time gem covered class kabak and dome jewelry finding cameo pendant settings product all that I've done is take a little piece of green stuff to the back of it stick that on to the little I stock and then blend it in with my tool to help my eyes look like they're not just stuck on I roll little rounded pieces of the green stuff and then use those to make sort of eyelids around the eyes I've already stuck off this is where clay modeling tools really come in handy to get use of detail I don't need to cover all of the skull but I like to add some little textures and warts and things so that I have some interesting stuff for what I'm painting this guy so all I do is make little balls of green stuff stick them on and then use one of my tools to blend those into the skull once that's done your beholder should look a little bit something like this and we're ready to paint but first we'd his flight face this is gonna help us so that we don't have to be holding him the whole time we're painting him so I take those clear acrylic rods that I bought and I just use a solid saw down it fits really well into the hole that's already in the skull and then I use super glue to glue it on next I got to fix him to the base I'm using a 3d printed base which is easy to do the same thing I did to the skulls creating a hole that I can put that acrylic rod into but if you don't have a 3d printer I'll link some bases you can do this with I stick that into the base and using my super glue adhere him down I always use quick set spray or in success spray when I'm using super glue because I'm not very patient okay now we can paint this guy I'm using flat Brown and flat black from Vallejo and I mix these together and put on my base coat and for the gums I apply a flat red now I want to add some highlights so I'm using beastly brown and just sort of dry brushing over some areas to make them pop a little bit more here I use the flat right again and put that inside around my eye don't worry too much if you get paint on the eye because it'll scrape off really easily and some highlights to my gum so I'm using the army painter barbarian flesh and the model colored light flesh together to create some pretty cool highlights on there I'd do the same around the eyes adding some highlights so that the grooves have a deeper feel to UM finally for my most intense highlights I add a little bit of white to the mixture I've already made so it really makes things pop the teeth get a straight coat of white paint you're probably gonna have to do a few layers of this as you know I normally work in layers so here I'm adding another layer by mixing the white with the brown that I've used and creating some more highlights with dry brushing once that's done I use my army painters soft tone wash to add another layer of depth to the beholder this is also gonna make him a little bit slimy looking which I kind of like I wanted the kind of bumps and warts to pop even more so what I did was mix a little bit of yellow ochre with the flat Brown and the white so that I could kind of make these pop and then blended that in with the color that was already there I found that I had kind of overdone this so I took the flat Brown went back in and then kind of blended things a little bit more for me painting is always a bit of a learning experience even if I've done a bunch of time spent painting a whole made model or a new model sometimes things just don't work the way you want them to so lots of mixing of you know ochre yellow with the brown with the white to get the right consistency I wanted so here I've taken more of that ochre yellow and then I'm applying it onto the warts to make them pop out and I do the same thing adding some dark Browns and then some lighter yellows onto the eye stalks to give them the illusion that one area is kind of higher than the other one I also applied some of the yellow brown and white highlights to those spikes to make it stand out even with all of the texture that I added he just didn't have quite enough so I decided to add some sort of polka dots and cheat a little bit by giving him some added highlights and then blending those in with the added flat polka dots this way it gives him the illusion of having more texture than it really does and makes the paint job more interesting again I wanted some more dynamic lighting so I decided to add some yellow and white highlights and a few of the areas to make them stick out just a little bit more all these added layers do is help things to blend a little bit better and look more realistic and a lot less flat so I decided to put some of those whites and that on to the bulbs and then blend those same a little bit with the wash from army painter these added steps of blending together some highlighted areas with some darker areas or what really make this piece flow and make it feel like he's a real living thing here I'm just applying more of that dynamic lighting I was talking about earlier by kind of having transitions from white to dark on those eyes stops so putting some lighter yellows on the areas where they Bend and then the areas closest to the eyes just gave you a little more variety after that I hit it with another wash to help things blend in this time with a dark tone I wasn't entirely satisfied with the red in the eyes and in the lips and gum area so what I decided to do was take some Tamiya gloss red and apply that in all those areas to give them more of a glossy feel and a muddy field and then for the teeth I put a glaze medium from Vallejo on top to give them that extra added shine here I'm simply adding some more polka dots you can see I added a lot more close together near the tops the tentacles and then I'm just applying them pretty much everywhere and just make sure that you apply them in a variety of ways where sometimes they're close together sometimes they're farther apart and use the yellow ochre to do this now I'm just adding small sections of white on top of those polka dots that give them the illusion again of sticking out a little bit more lastly I decided to paint the base I'm just using some cheap Apple barrel paint at this point because I'm not too concerned with it I used Christmas green in bright blue mix these together with a little bit of white and gray and I get it way pretty consistent looking sort of cavernous color then I add a little bit more white apply that on there and give it a little bit of a highlight with a dry brush so there it is at this point you now have everything you need to know to make an awesome do-it-yourself beholder I hope to see some of these on Facebook or in the comments we'd really love to see the things you guys are making and we will see you all next time on critical crafting