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Your step-by-step guide — create mark initials

Access helpful tips and quick steps covering a variety of airSlate SignNow’s most popular features.

Using airSlate SignNow’s eSignature any business can speed up signature workflows and eSign in real-time, delivering a better experience to customers and employees. create mark initials in a few simple steps. Our mobile-first apps make working on the go possible, even while offline! Sign documents from anywhere in the world and close deals faster.

Follow the step-by-step guide to create mark initials:

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  8. Click Save and Close when completed.

In addition, there are more advanced features available to create mark initials. Add users to your shared workspace, view teams, and track collaboration. Millions of users across the US and Europe agree that a solution that brings everything together in one unified digital location, is the thing that businesses need to keep workflows working effortlessly. The airSlate SignNow REST API allows you to embed eSignatures into your app, internet site, CRM or cloud. Try out airSlate SignNow and get faster, smoother and overall more effective eSignature workflows!

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Create mark initials

[Music] i am mark ruden welcome back to nomad boat building and we are building the 2.4 meter project now i want to take one step back in the process to a moment before i put the skag on when i was sending out the hull in preparation for varnish now we're using a process called encapsulation which means you put multiple layers of epoxy over everything and that's to make sure that no water can get through that epoxy and into the structure of the wood that we're using earlier in the summer when we're at that stage of the construction a fellow came into the shop and he wanted to hang out for a day and just talk about what it's like to work as a boat builder and to get a little bit of hands-on experience and so you're going to see him helping me out for a moment and i just want to say this is at a time when the risk of covid in my area was very very low the rates of infections were extremely low and the attitudes around wearing masks was different than it might be today and this hill and i certainly discussed the need to wear masks decided that we were going to be safe without them in the way that we were going to work now that's not to say that we shouldn't have been wearing masks for the work we were doing on the boat but we were having a conversation and we did what we could to make sure we could do both those things relatively safely so we don't need to have any comments about that if you don't mind now we're also going to get into the actual varnishing in this video and i'll give you a few tips and tricks that i use in my varnishing process so without further ado let's get down to work i typically do a lot of my sanding by hand rather than with the power sander it's really easy to stand too much it can be but i just enjoy i i just hate i hate running a sander you're just sitting there and you have a mask on you got a vacuum cleaner going and yeah it's just like it kind of takes the droid of the it takes all the joy out of it yeah so i tend to do a lot of it by hand and also it's because i'm usually working on small boats that have got a lot of shape to them like canoes yeah and on a typical sander that the pads are too stiff to do much on the bulk of the shape of the hole uh sorry sorry again the pads are too they're too stiff so the sander would work fine down here you don't even bother sanding down here cause i'll probably come at it with the electric sander okay okay but all these areas work you're wrapping around a curve the sander if you watch it the pattern it leaves it leaves like this touching this tiny little surface and that's how you burn through yeah yeah it's really it's going like this basically yeah and then you just have a tiny point actually bearing i just want to look at yours quickly and just see how yours looks it looks maybe a little more even than mine uh so right over here you want this sanded also i guess right in this uh you know what there's gonna be so much going on in here you don't have to get fussy yeah but yeah doing a quick sand job in this area without worrying about finish is just is useful okay because i'm gonna be doing some gluing on here and we want that surface abraded yeah [Music] this is where you get to see the fruits of your labor yeah [Music] [Music] feels good eh yeah it does it's so satisfying i feel like i would probably feel better if i was here for the whole process we got mason harrison down here from williams lake just coming to help out for the day much appreciated bit of help too you showed up right at the perfect moment just in time for the sanding well actually the fairing would have been an even better moment because that's even worse than this but still you did a great job i'd put you on the job anytime if you're down this way oh awesome yeah you passed you passed the test oh great well i guess sanding is a probably a relatively easy test to pass no no it's an easy test to fail that's why you start that's why you start someone on sanding so just screw that up you don't want them around you know yeah you can't stand you can't do anything else that's right it's very very true well part of it is you know can the person adopt the technique you you demonstrate to them quickly yeah and then do they move at a pace that is relative to the one that you laid out and if they're if they've moved twice as far as you have in the same amount of time then they're not taking enough time yeah and if they're going half the speed they're probably hanging around too long and making a mess out of something pulling yeah pulling the old instrument yeah without the experience you come back and you find a big hole in the side of your boat where they went to town and the hell out of a six-inch yeah i guess you're putting a little bit of crust and yeah a random guy showing up at your shop eh well yeah so i asked jason romero if he ever entertained any apprenticeship um or or even just internship opportunities and i was almost hesitant to ask him because it's exactly that there's there's so few jobs sometimes especially as the craft gets finer where you can where you trust sticking any old joker that walks in the door yeah go watch him like a hawk yeah yeah very much so i've got our skagg all fared out and um i've had to come back at it with a little bit of bondo here and there to fill in a couple smaller spots and now we're moving on to planting a water line on and there's a reason why i want to do that now and that's because at the moment the mold here is level and plum and everything about it is controlled so what i want to do is get a nice level line on here now while i can and i want to get the varnish started and part of that is just the sooner i get going on varnish the sooner that the whole finishing process will be done in the in the end so it doesn't hurt to just get rolling on it there's no reason for me to not do it now i could just varnish up past my general water line but once those boats flipped over i'd like to have a reference so i've taped off the water line so that at least when i do flip it over i'll have that tape edge that will help to guide me for laying out that water line again later on when we go to paint the bottom i'm going to use the back of my band saw to support my level because this level is magnetic this is like a really easy convenient thing for me to mount it on while i dial it in so there you can see it on the side of the hull i'm going to bring it down until i meet my tape line or my reference line that i had on the keel i'm going to be using this special pinterest tape that scotch makes and it's number 218 it is beautiful stuff it's plasticky and it holds an edge really really well so i'm just going to start with it now there's a this thing takes a hard turn here so i'm just going to come back and deal with that later for now i'm just going to worry about getting this started and i just want to touch the tape or the late just at the top edge of the laser line around the the first little bit i'm going to be just touching it with my finger for a moment but then to get a really nice clean line where it flattens out i'm going to do this and just stretch out a nice long piece of tape and then carefully drag it along the hull and drop it down into place ever so slowly and that is how you get a fair line if you go along here and try and touch it every few inches it's just going to end up with a big lumpy mess so this is your best way to try and get a fair line even the even right there where i touched it a bit hard it suddenly it's not giving me the same quality of line i had a second ago the only time i'm touching it is just to make sure it's not as i'm coming around the shape i want to make sure that it's grabbing properly and the hardest part is right here at the bow where it starts to take a turn and the laser becomes quite faded so i've got to kind of eyeball it i've got my other tape on the back side to compare it to you so there we go i'll just make sure that looks good before i trim it it looks pretty nice i think now this is not necessarily they aren't my only chance at doing this so when we go and paint the bottom i'll be able to re-line this out and if i don't like how it looks i can i can change that a bit but for the most part this will give me a good working point and usually when we do a water line we actually want it to rise up a little bit at the ends so we have not done that here in this case obviously just run it flat but this is kind of an odd boat to do this with so right now i know the load water line is supposed to zero out at a very specific point then we have a switch from paint to varnish i might just raise it up so that this line zeros out at the end of the skeg and that's going to change the shape of the laser on here and i'll take this out and then we'll have a look at it just for comparison again i'm using sort of a specialty tape that's made for taping out curved lines like this it does quite a nice job and then from here to here i'm just going to be using the transition from skeg to hull as my as my finished surface so i'm not going to bother with taping that off i'll just throw another line on here just to make this a bit wider in reality it matters absolutely not whether or not i get brush strokes over here and a lot of the time if i'm doing this sort of thing i might even be inclined to just burnish the whole bottom of the boat because it's getting me some base coats on there that i can use i could put paint over later but i'm not doing that this time specifically because i just want this water line marked now let's just have a look if i were to essentially raise that water line now of course we're going down because the boat's upside down even even if you wanted to have a boot top which is what we would call the the stripe between the top and the bottom we have the equivalent of about a fat one-inch boot top right now i'm going to turn off the light so you can see the laser here up here is where my first line is and here's where my second line is and you can see we have this massive swath of material that just goes before it becomes a little skinny boot top line and so when you have water lines that come very close to portion of the hole that has a horizontal plane like this you're going to get these really massive lines and if you're to try and make this a straight line with a regular boot top it would just kind of look silly a lot of the time so it's something to be conscious of it would look if i tried to make it a straight line all the way around it would just look like it droops like crazy what i'm even inclined to do is actually have this water line go from where we laid it off before and actually just i might even just stretch it right out until i hit that point and that's in profile that's just going to make it look like it sweeps up a little bit and that might actually look really good something like that so you can see how wide this line would be right in here if i were to use a level line right out to that skeg and then here's the line we've created just now the big difference here and so a happy medium might be even if i wanted to do a boot top was to stretch it out so just bring this out say to here and then bring the next one out and sweep it around out to here as well get rid of this now the rest of my hull is already wiped down and it's dusted off and i'm ready to apply some varnish i'm just going to rub down my tape line here carefully what i like to do is use a thumbnail or a fingernail and just just along the edge that the paint is going to run don't do the whole thing because i don't need to don't need to make myself a whole bunch of work trying to get that tape off if this were already varnished and i were taping off for a painted bottom right now and i want to get a really clean result obviously the top edge would be the part we rubbed down but the first thing i would do is take some varnish and go over this whole thing and give it the initial coat with varnish let that set up then you do your colored coat over top and what that's going to do is let's conceal that edge so when you peel that tape off you're not going to see those little tiny nubbles of of paint bleeding underneath every now and then because the varnish is going to do that job and you'll have varnish on varnish and so it'll be a really nice clean crisp line and once paint's over top of that it'll be fine we're going to get our first coat of varnish on this so it's ready to roll it's all dusted off now i guess the one question is where do you start and where do you stop and while we have any standing back here and it might be tempting to start right back here in this large broad area it's not the best decision we want to try and end our course of varnish some place where it will fare into the to where we started easily and this would be a bad spot even though it'd be a good spot in that you never really this is always going to be upside down and not seeing it so well we've got a better spot which is right along the stem this is just a long area to try and create a nice clean straight line you could certainly do it but it's not as effective as starting at the bow up here at the bow we have a nice short line that we can use as a starting point for our varnish and to make it even a little more crisp it's not really necessary but we could just add a piece of tape here and we could just start working from that tape and work our way down now i as a general rule like to work from right to left and it's just because the physical way i like to brush things out so what i'm going to do is i'm going to put my tape on here i'm going to start varnishing on this side of the boat just like that now a lot of people like rolling and tipping personally i'm just a brush man simple brush is fine by me okay here's my basic setup for varnishing i happen to be using a brand new badger hair brush i don't usually give myself such a luxury but all my other brushes are not in such great shape i like to use fine paint filters ones that are intended for spraying i always have a clean rag on hand i use deodorized mineral spirits which i buy from artist supplies just for thinning paint i don't use that for cleaning brushes or anything but for thinning paint i do and that's just to keep the smell down in the workshop and then i use milk containers with a stick put through them as my paint pot and what i like about these is they're just the right size for brushes and when you dip your paint you've got something to tip your brush off against that will allow that paint to drip back into the can so you're not tipping it off against the sides of the can and i like the square configuration it just feels comfortable in my hand and it you know it feels sturdy when i put it down it's not going to get knocked over easily and i'll get quite a bit of use out of one of these before i deem it to crud up to use anymore so the varnish we're going to use is the tonkan noir this is a um this is a french-made varnish it's a traditional varnish really good quality stuff and um my customer likes using it he's got another boat that he's got it on and it's been holding up really well and because it's a traditional varnish it's actually really easy to re-coat it doesn't require a vast amount of sanding like polyurethanes tend to so i'm just taking a guess as to how much i'm going to need probably about half of this pot filled maybe a bit less that feels about right and so i have a simple trick for figuring out whether or not i've got the right consistency and it's something that's really hard to explain and i'll see if i can what i can do to show you so if i take my brush here and i'm just gonna get it loaded up first so when i take my brush and i rub it up against this stick here to tip it out what i want to see is i want to see that varnish curtaining off it very quickly and falling just watch that little flash of light if it sort of hangs there for a little while it's too thick and if it suddenly just falls away very quickly we're right so this stuff happens to be a really great brushing consistency look at that right there it's perfect see how quickly that falls that's just right on the money so i don't need to thin that at all if i were using something like epiphanes which is an excellent varnish epiphanes is very thick and you definitely have to thin the varnish in order to use it on anything but a dead flat surface so let's go and get started on the boat here [Music] so i have a very simple method i just like to lay it on don't worry about grain direction or anything and then i tip it off usually in line with the planking now this planking is running diagonally so that's a bit of a an oddball for me i'm not sure how i'm going to deal with that i'm not sure if i want to run it with the planking i could try that the strong backs kind of in my way here but the secret is to get on just enough to load the surface without any dry spots which we call holidays and holidays can be really hard to spot you've got to get right down low sometimes and go dip it out and in theory if you got a good varnish that has good flow out properties the brush direction shouldn't matter at all when i'm dipping my brush i only dip about maybe a quarter inch or a half inch into the paint tip it off a little bit usually just tip it off on the one side because i do need paint on there or varnish on there and then i lay it on and then do my tip out i got a little extra varnish on me because i just demonstrated that and a little holiday here you can't see it but i can see it and a couple more over there so it's you got to get right down low into the raking light to spot those guys and then the golden rule of course is don't overwork your varnish i'm trying to work in these small sections that are maybe i don't know 16 inches wide 18 inches wide something like that sort of because one arm span covers you only so far right so i try and think about how much can i cover in one comfortable sweep with my like so i just go back and it doesn't matter if i want to go this way the direction that i lay it on is totally irrelevant because it's all about tipping it out i just want to try and make sure i've got an even coat over the whole surface not have it too heavy near the top right and drag some of that down but then we tip it out checking for holidays as we go don't want to find holidays i did back there after it started to flow out because when you go back to try and touch them up the chances that you're going to do that successfully are very low and i've got this bottom edge that i really don't even need to worry about because my shear line actually lands about two inches above that roughly anytime you see me get down low it's because i'm trying to look into the raking light i'm going back and forth over it like i'm doing right here that's not overworking it um because i'm trying to make sure that there are no holidays and i'm telling you can lay up you can lay a brush stroke on there it looks thick as can be and i think there's no chance you got holidays and then you get them to rain late and suddenly sure enough there they are so that's just to make sure i've really worked that surface but you don't do it over a long period of time and they say don't overwork it that just kind of means you're battling the amount of time the varnish takes to level out and once it starts that level out process then it's starting to set up just a little bit and if you go back and overwork it that's when you're going to leave brush strokes so you have this sort of short window of opportunity and for instance like right here the brush strokes are already mellowing out as i look back it's hard to see in the camera but back there my brushstrokes have largely [Music] disappeared i keep the paint filter kicking around and if i have any leftover varnish it goes back into the can but it gets filtered on its way after this a few more coats of varnish will go on at the time i shot this it was summertime i could open the doors and i had work to do outside of the shop so it's a perfect opportunity to just lay on coats of varnish as a base coat next we'll flip the hull over and we'll get working on the interior and we'll return to varnishing at the end of the project i hope those varnishing tips were useful to you these videos are supported by my followers on patreon if you could help us out over there i really appreciate that you can find links in the description or up in the corner don't forget you can also subscribe and like and watch some my other videos and that helps me out too and i appreciate all of it ciao for now folks i'll see you later

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