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Fax esign adjustment

hi everyone and welcome to another episode today we're going to be talking about getting the most out of your 3018 pro by tuning some of the grbl settings so stick around and let's get started so for anyone who saw my recent video on tips and tricks for the 3018 pro you'll know that at the end of it i started to talk about a tutorial by graham bland about calibrating your grbl settings and he's been kind enough to let me share that with everyone on this channel so we're going to cover part of that tutorial today but there is a link in the description to download the full tutorial from graham because he goes into lots of detail and it's really useful especially if you're a beginner so i would advise downloading it and giving it a read now before we actually get started on changing anything and looking at settings i do need to mention a few things first graham did all his calibration tests with the laser for the 3018 pro and the reason for this is the settings we're looking at today have a bigger impact on using the laser than the spindle however because most of you out there use it with the spindle we're going to try and modify some of those tests to see how we can improve the performance of using the spindle rather than the laser now the settings that we're actually looking to that at today affect the acceleration of each axis and the maximum travel speed of each axis and that's where we're going to gain time and improve the performance of the machine so what this means in reality is that when your cutting head is moving from one position to another in order to make those different cuts that's where we're going to gain the advantage now what we can't do with these settings is physically make the machine cook quicker if you're looking to achieve that then you need to upgrade the spindle as we've covered in previous episodes so i'm just being realistic and upfront in what to expect from this calibration setup and the last thing i need to mention is there is literally a storm going on outside so if you hear any wind and bangs and clonks yeah the weather's terrible out there so you know i'm trying to keep the audio as clean as i can but let's get reset up with the computer and start to take a look at some of those settings so the first thing you want to do is open up ugs and this is where we'll be doing all of the work today the next thing you want to check is that your console panel is open if you can't see the console panel go up to window and select console and this is just the panel that allows us to see the different settings that are going on within our grbl control now what we want to do is take a backup of our original settings just as a reference point to begin with so in the command line type dollar dollar and hit enter now this displays all the different grbl settings that are stored on your control board if you scroll up to the top to where you see the dollar zero and then drag and highlight that all the way down to the bottom press ctrl c to take a copy and then open up something like notepad and paste all the settings in there and simply go file save as and save it somewhere convenient like your desktop now while we've got this screen open i will just show you the different settings that we're going to be looking at today the dollar 110 settings down to the dollar 112 settings these are your maximum speed that the spindles can travel so if you imagine this as a car this is the top speed it can achieve the next set of settings is the dollar 120 down to the dollar 122 and this is how fast it can accelerate up to that speed so for example this is 1600 and what this down here is telling it to do is how fast it can accelerate up to that 1600 speed now these settings themselves each relate to an individual axis which is labeled up next to them it typically goes x y and z so 110 is x 111 is y 112 is zed and it starts again for these 120 settings to 122. what we'll also finish up looking at is the dollar 30 settings which is your maximum spindle speed now i'll talk about this a bit more later on but the reason this is relevant is the closer it is to your actual spindle speed the more control you can have over it and just get a little bit more out of it all right now if we go back to ugs so before changing any settings what we want to do is just create ourselves a bit of a reference point so we can see how much the settings have improved at the end of this calibration test now all i'm going to do is simply run a very quick piece of g-code as you'll see it's just jd designed and this is only a light pass but what it'll do is give us a rough time code of how long this takes and then once we've done the calibration at the end we will run this exact same test and we'll see an improvement and we can work that out as a percentage now you don't need to physically run this with a bit in you can just simply run the g-code without any bit in and just get the time that it takes for your machine to do it so i'm just going to simply reset the zero on this point and send it off running and then we'll get a time frame for how long that took so that program quickly ran and as we can see it took five minutes and 41 seconds now this program only has 11 cuts which is one for each letter other than the d's which both have two the more cut paths your design has the more time these settings will actually save you so basically the more complex of a program you're running the more time you'll save and as i say the purpose of running this test is purely just to get a bit of a time stamp so we can track the progress later so the first thing we're going to start to look at is the acceleration settings now if we go back to our settings that we saved earlier we can see that the acceleration settings for the x-axis which is dollar 120 is at 20 millimeters per second so if we go back into ugs now we can start to look at the acceleration test what we're going to do is just open up a very simple piece of g-code and all this does is send the carriage right 50 ml and then it sends it back left 50 mil and it does that twice now the reason we're doing this is because with the acceleration of the carriage itself it's got to get up to that top speed as fast as possible but then slow it down at the end as well and send it back the other way if you're just doing it in one direction you can get your speeds up much higher but the problem is when it tries to traverse it and send it back the other way you'll often find that it stalls and that could cause a you know ruiner job for you so we need to make sure it can traverse at the same acceleration speed in both directions so to do that we're just going to roughly move the carriage into the middle of the board and then reset our zero point for that so it's like we know that the acceleration command for the x axis is dollar 120 and the one that we had in place at the moment is 20 as well so to increase that we type dollar 120 equals and then our new increment i'm going to start off by taking this up to 50 and then i'll increase it each time at 50 just to see how we get on and you'll know as soon as the acceleration starts to fail because you'll hear it jump or it won't quite sound right so we'll put this up to 50 to begin with hit enter and that's put the new command in if you want to double check again just type dollar dollar hit enter and you can now see the dollar 120 is at 50. so what we're going to do is just quickly run this command to send it back and forth twice at 50ml as you can see that sounded fine so we can then take that up another 50. we'll run it again and again it sounds good now you can start to be more aggressive with these increments and maybe take it up to a hundred each time but just do be careful because you don't want to push it too much so what we'll do now is go dollar 120 equals 200 and we'll run that again news you can probably hear the wind up to get it to the maximum speed is getting less and less each time and therefore it just gets up to the top speed much quicker but you need to be careful that you don't push it too fast because as i say that's when you start to miss steps or it will jam so let's take this up again we'll go dollar 120 equals 300 and we'll run it again so you get the gist of what we're doing at this stage we're just going to keep taking that increment off until it gets to a stage where it starts to struggle so i'll speed this up a bit now and just keep going and then i'll kick the video back in once we're at a phase where you can start to hear that the motor is struggling a little bit so i jumped ahead at this point and i went from i went from dollar 120 equals 1800 to dollar 120 equals 2 500. and as you will have seen then it started to stall i'll run that again and you'll see it [Music] so that basically means we've taken the settings too high now what i'm going to start to do is bring them down a little bit until we get to a point where we're comfortable again so that was 2500 i'm going to bring it down to 2300 and run it again [Music] so it's still jamming we'll bring that down further jammed again hopefully we're getting close to it now so there we are we've got our dollar 120 from the default setting at 20 up to 2000 so that's quite an increase now when you run this for every axis you will get a different number and every machine will be slightly different so if you don't make it to 2000 don't think there's a problem with your machine it's just that they are all a little bit different ultimately you could go beyond 2000 and get a better reading but what you need to do at this stage is make a note of that number so we've got dollar 120 equals 2 000. now for safety what i always say is try and run those figures at about 80 percent so dollar 120 2000 would then become dollar 120 equals 1600 now i know i should be able to run that all the time and it should be pretty comfortable at those speeds just to be safe we'll run it one last time at the new figure and that's the calibration of the acceleration done for the x-axis now we'll move on to the y-axis so again if we go back to our original settings we know the y-axis 1-2-1 is at 20 again so we'll come back to ugs and we'll start off doing a similar process we'll load in the same test but for the y-axis and that just sends it back and forth at 50 mil doing exactly the same thing so we'll take the setting up to begin with and go dollar one two one equals fifty and we'll run that and then we'll bump that up to 100 do the same again and we'll keep taking that up in 100 increments until it starts to jam like it did with the x-axis so i'll speed this up a little bit for you so we've just got that up to 2400 and it's starting to jam so we're going to bring that back down again so we'll go dollar one two one equals let's say 2200 and we'll run it now that's definitely still jamming so the machine just got jammed on the end there because typically what you will find is it may straw towards the edges of the rails rather than it being in the center so it's going to bring that down again and run it once more so again i'm quite comfortable with that and that was it two thousand so if we use the eighty percent rule again that means we make our dollar one two one at sixteen hundred just run it to be safe again so at this point we could also do the same calibration for the z axis we're going to leave the z axis to the end and there's reason for this it's a the three different axis the z axis is the one that needs to be the most sensitive because that can cause the most damage you can either jam the bit into the wood or it can break the carriage itself so we need to be a bit more sensitive when dealing with that so we'll calibrate the top speed now of the x and y axis and then we'll come back to the z axis at the end and do both the calibration test for that at the same time so if we come back over to our settings we can see that the top right for the x-axis is currently set at sixteen hundreds that's dollar one ten at sixteen hundred so what we're going to do to begin with is take that up to quite a high number that we know we may never achieve so we'll go dollar 110 equals 3000. now what that's just doing is set the top speed for the x axis at 3 000 in any direction whether it's going left or right and what we will do up here is adjust the feed rate slowly to go up in 100 100 mil increments until we get to a speed that we're happy with so we'll take that up to 1700 to start with and we'll just send it to the right by 50 mil and just bring it back again that seems fairly smooth so we'll take it up to 1800 done the same and again you can see where we're going with this we'll just keep doing that in 100 increments until we get to a speed where it starts to struggle [Music] so we've got the speed up to 2900 i don't know if you can hear it on the camera but it just starts to sound a little bit rough when it's traversing each way so i'm going to stop at that point and not take the speed up anymore now again using the 80 rule that we did before i'm going to bring this down to a number that i'm comfortable with using it on a regular basis so 80 of 2900 is just over 2 300 but we'll round it to 2 300 just for ease so go dollar 110 equals 2 300. and we'll run that it's worth pointing out at this phase that even though the feed rate here says 2900 because i set the dollar 110 to 2300 it won't go any higher than 2300 no matter what figure i put in this box over here so if we now do the same for the y-axis again we can go back and check what the y-axis was so we can see dollar one eleven equals sixteen hundred and we'll take that up to a big number to begin with as well like three thousand so dollar one one one equals three thousand and we'll start from the sign point here so 1700 which is at 100 increments on the original and we'll just send it back and forth as we previously did and again keep going up in 100 [Music] increments so i've just got this up to 2800 not as i run it again i'm just starting to hear that little sound that makes it spill a little bit rough [Music] so i'm going so i'm going to leave it at 2800 and again applying that 80 rule although technically it's just under 2 300 i'm gonna round it to 2 300 for the sake of keeping them both the same so we go dollar one one one equals two thousand 2 300. now is the same you may have completely different settings and the different axes will have different speeds altogether so now we've calibrated the acceleration rate and the top speed for both the x and y axis let's start to take a look at the z-axis now the reason i've left this till last as i say is because the z-axis needs to be a little bit slower and a little bit more controlled than the other axis it's also the one that can cause the most damage if something goes wrong and one of the reasons we left it to last is because you'll see on your original settings that typically your maximum rate for the z-axis is much lower than the other two axis and this is something that we need to take into consideration now to try and control the acceleration test leaving it at 100 millimeters per minute is probably a little bit too low so what we're going to do is take that up straight away to something a little bit higher so maybe 300 as a starting point so go dollar one one two equals three hundred and we'll then also adjust the z value in here and we'll make that something i don't know around ten mil just to be safe now you want to make sure that your z-axis is sitting somewhere in the middle of the carriage in order to do this because if it goes up too high or down too low obviously it's going to hit and jam so now we've just taken that up to 300 we'll just do a quick test and then we'll start to focus on the acceleration settings so if we come back and we can check the acceleration settings for the z axis is it 20.112 equals 20 and we'll take that up to 50 to begin with so dollar one one two sorry dollar one two two equals fifty and we'll just run this up and down that seem pretty good we'll keep going so at this point i've got the acceleration up to 2004 now i'm happy with that speed i don't want to take it any further obviously you can if you want and continue to increase it until it stalls you also have to remember because you're running this at a slightly slower speed going up and down it will affect the acceleration value and you can probably also increase it much more but also because it's a shorter spindle the amount of room it has to gain that acceleration is less as well so again always keep the values a little bit lower so now we can actually start to look at the top speed of the z-axis which is go back to our original is our dollar one one two setting at the moment as i said the default setting was a hundred and we took it up earlier to i think it was 400 sorry and we took it up earlier to 300 so now we're going to start to increase that again and see what we can get that up to there we go dollar one one two equals four hundred move it up and we'll keep doing the same again so i've got the dollar one one two up to a thousand millimeters now as you can see this accelerates quite quick now the reason i'm not gonna take that any further is because you don't want it jamming into the wood at that speed so i'm gonna leave it at a thousand for now and see how we get on with that so at this point we're going to look at our spindle speed setting which is our dollar 30 setting so we can see the default that it came in it was a thousand now as i touched on earlier you changing this value won't physically make your spindle cut at any faster rate but what we can start to do is by getting it closer to the actual rpm is being able to have more control over it so to my knowledge the standard stock spindles that come with these machines run at around 9000 rpm at 24 volts now the way this works is if you're trying to slow that down so for example if you only want the spindle to run at half the speed which is 4000 rpm then the control board only sends half the power so it would send 12 volts now so the reason this is relevant to get your rpm speed as close to the spindle is because it gives you more control over it in varying the amount of power that goes to it so if you've seen my previous videos you will know that the spindle i've got in at the moment it's a 20 000 spindle so what i'm going to do is set my dollar 30 to 20 000. so we go dollar 30 equals 20 000. now the reason i've done that is when i'm actually designing programs in the different software and if i want to control the spindle speed i can put exact figures in to control it so again if i'm cutting something that requires a slower speed i can put in a relevant figure maybe 10 000 and the board knows then to send only half of the power so now we've calibrated most of our settings what i'm going to do again is run the same design that we did at the start and see what the time difference is so we go open load that same file in i'm just going to roughly jog the head back to its start position so it doesn't need to be exact but we'll reset the zero run that same program again and let's see how long it takes now so there we have it the job's complete and what's that in a time of three minutes and 39 i think the original file was five minutes and 48 so i don't know rough math on that a 40 saving on time i'm pretty impressed with that i don't think it will be that amount of saving on every job but it's a good place to start and it shows that the settings that we have changed have really made a difference in this particular job now in a fairy tale world that would be everything you've just not 40 off the cutting time i've got some really fast settings to be able to crack it on with but if you start to move your different axis to the four parameters you might find that you start to get jams and sticking points and that's what we need to look at next so for me i happen to know that the far left or far right of the x-axis or the far front and far back of the y-axis is where it's most likely to jump now this isn't always because of the top speed it's usually because of the acceleration so the machine physically can't get it up to speed quick enough because of that extra tension so we need to then look at the acceleration settings and say well have we pumped them up a bit too much do we need to bring them down now you might have a perfect machine and that doesn't happen but given that some of these machines are produced very cheaply there's a good chance you may get those sticking points so that's what we're going to cover now so just to show you an example of what might happen i'm going to send the z-axis from one side to the other and as i prepare to send it back the other way you should hear it jump actually that's a perfect example because it's jamming from the start not planned but let's run with it so what we know now is that the top speed or the acceleration is a bit too high because there's a particular tight spot around that area so we need to bring them down together we know that the top speed on the x-axis is 2300 and we know that the acceleration speed is 1600 so what we're going to do is bring these down together until we find the speed that we're comfortable with so we go dollar one one zero equals and let's bring that down to about eighteen hundred it's a bit of a big jump but it's better to be safe and then dollar one two zero equals let's bring that down to a thousand all right let's try sending it across again so as we can see it's now moving and it didn't jump at the start the question is will it jump on the way [Music] back so there we have it we've brought the settings down to a cypher parameter for them to work now you can spend time keep adjusting these and going up and down with finer measurements to get the perfect settings that you're after but as i say do remember that once you get the most out of your settings just bring it down to that 80 rule because it's better to be safe than to have an entire job jam and obviously do this on both the x-axis and the y-axis for me personally i don't have an issue with the z-axis but if you do on your machine you can also do the same with that so now i've gone through all the tight spots on my machines and reduce the settings accordingly you can see they've come down quite a bit so what was 2300 for the maximum rate has now come down to 1800 and what was i think 1600 on the acceleration has now come down to around a thousand for the x and the y axis so it's a bit slower than what we had earlier but it's better to be safe and know that this job will cut all the way through rather than it jamming now just as a final test we're going to run the jd designs program once more and see what the time difference is and that will give us a better indication overall of what we've saved so even after we slowed those speeds down it's barely made a difference to the outcome we've still saved about 40 off the original time which is great news so after doing all those tests and making those tweaks to the settings you should now have a machine that's running faster smoother and you can turn those jobs out a little bit quicker hopefully you don't hit the snags that i hit with the sticky spots on the axis but at least if you do you know how to get around them because as you saw with my settings i had to bring them down quite a bit from the height that we got them to in order to keep the machine running safely and smoothly now don't forget when you're doing this type of setup or you are running your machine in general always use lubricant because it minimizes the amount of tight spots on those axes and just keeps everything running better i want to give a final thank you to graeme for allowing us to use and share this tutorial obviously this is a slightly different version to his but do download it and read it because there's lots of useful information in there that we haven't covered in this video as always if you enjoyed it please give it a thumbs up and subscribe to the channel it makes a big difference if you're about to give it a thumbs down at least let me know why in the comments section below that is everything for today and i'll see you all on the next video