Print Awardee Zip with airSlate SignNow

Print awardee zip

Morgentaler here with the equipment zone of that white human organisation and behind the scenes we have J bus L we're so grateful he's back here managing things making sure the audio in the video is great also he will be checking for your questions so if you have questions make sure you put them in the Q&A section of this webinar if you have a comment like hey your audio just went out or your video sucks then put it in the chat but if you have a question about what we're doing or how we're doing it put it in the Q&A so today we're gonna be talking about hoodies again this is part two the first one we did we talked about printing on hoodies without zippers and then we promised you we'd come back and show you printing on hoodies with a zipper and yes very possible works great on the Epson F 2100 so that's what we're featuring today the Epson F 2100 direct your garment printer we are also using the great SpeedTree turkey X made by equipment Zone in New Jersey we're also using the geo night in k20 a 16 by 20 heat press so for patents the big difference that we're gonna be doing is that we have a platen with risers on it okay so we'll talk more about this during the webinar all right Jay's telling me to get a little closer there's a little bit of a shine I think you can see these risers are applied to this platen now this is a Livingston systems tuck Rock platen and these risers Roy if you can just pick one off and show people have that just insert it right on there so this is the platen we'll be featuring today there's also a platen from Epson that you can use it's specifically for hoodies and it doesn't have pieces that you can take off or put off with this 16 by 20 Livingston system tuck lock platen you can have those right on or ticked them off we can also purchase a 14 by 16 as well that as risers for ladies great thank you right so you're probably wondering why are we talking about hoodies today I think in Arizona it's can hit what one hundred eight hundred and ten degrees so we're super excited about that definitely not funny weather but this is the time to start thinking about the fall we're always thinking a few steps ahead right you want to be prepared you don't want to be playing catch-up so that's what we're doing today we're being prepared we're preparing you we're teaching you to be prepared for the foe when hoodies become more important so I'm going to turn the time over to Roy and he's going to show you how to do this all right thank you appreciate it Jeff anyway this is part two from the last one that he did and as we showed you the risers there's two different sizes you can purchase it actually narrows the gap here obviously on the tail end you can see where I'm gonna move the camera a little closer you can see here that you have an open area for hoodies that have pockets like the ones you have here okay so I'm going to go through how to properly pretreat a hoodie first off so basically you want to make sure if there's any lint or anything you want to get it off beforehand so go ahead and use your lip brush at this time who do you tend to have a lot more lint than other products you want to make sure you got your strings out of the way you pull your hoodie all the way to the front of your pretreat er and you're gonna tuck this in make sure this is completely flat tucking in the sleeves the other thing you want to do is make sure that your zipper is laying or the fabric over the zipper is laying completely flat in the area you're going to be printing if it's popping up at all then what happens is is you're not going to get ample amount of pretreat in the seam where that threading is between the zipper and where it comes over okay you want to make sure that's completely flat and go ahead and push down on our pretreat err we're doing this at a number 6 for this specific city we're gonna go ahead and pretreat that now I have some already cured ready to print I'll show you how to mount those so I want to make sure I have ample amount of pretreat on the hoodie different hoodies may require more or less depending on the thickness and at this point this city is good to go as you will see it's completely pre treated when I get over to the heat press I'm gonna thread it so I'll go ahead and roll camera there I'm gonna grant the hoodie now it would be best on hoodies because you're putting so much pretreat on them is the pretreat them in advance and let them sit for a little while so you can let that pretreat soak in you want to make sure that you're pulling your zipper completely forward so you don't have an issue with that long flap I don't want to really disturb the pretreat over the zipper area but I want to make sure that this material is gonna be folding over and when I press it it's gonna lay flat so what I want to do at this point is I'm gonna go ahead and put my car trip aper on here and I'm going to push over that seam to make sure it's flattened out because it's wet and go ahead and flip it and then I'm going to give that a 90 second cure time now 90 seconds may not be enough for the hoodie so you wanna just check them after the fact and then go ahead and add some more time if you need to or like I said go ahead and advance go ahead and pretreat them let them start drying before you actually press them so as we let this thing go we'll go ahead and proceed to add amount the hoodie on the DTG so again we're gonna thread it the other thing to keep in mind with the risers I did remove the black spacer out of here so keep that in mind and that is removed from here you got two spacers a white one and a black one and this specific pretty we're looking at a flattened height three that we're gonna start with we'll get this thing mounted so after pre-treating cheering you want to make sure you're not throwing your hoodies anywhere where they're gonna collect any lint because you definitely don't want to let roll it after it's been pressed and again on the zipper you want to make sure that it's all the way over the front edge and that everything on here is completely flat so when you do print across the zipper there that you're gonna get a nice print okay that my pocket falls behind my risers so I'm going to just straighten this out tuck this in in the front get that zipper lon then I want to just smooth it out and make sure that I'm completely flat down the sides tucking my sleeves in and then I'm going to stretch my zipper to make sure all this is laying flat and tuck that in now your pockets may flap open here if this becomes an issue you can go ahead and put some painters tape over it as long as when you're looking at frost it that the risers are sitting higher than everything you're gonna be fine okay so you can just tuck that in just to make sure and let's go ahead and make sure that our platen height is where we need it to be right in here okay so I have an error I'm gonna just double check and make sure that my zipper is actually sticking up right now [Music] say I'm not what I think I did was I pulled it a little too far on the left to right side and it's just focusing on flattening that out there so we'll check that now okay we're good to go now as far as setting up garment creator to do a print you're gonna do it just like you're printing on a shirt the only difference is is that you want to go ahead and make sure that you're printing in Uni directional mode okay and as far as the amount of white base you might have to increase that so you get a consistent lay down of white ink I'm using a number of fifty on my white base okay I'm going to go ahead and print that and send that over there's no special jig or template needed for this platen you're just using the standard 1628 row you've got a couple questions that you can answer while that's printing okay so one is about how much pretreat are you putting down what's that cost on that you think on the six I would say or five protein or thirty five to forty five cents depending on the the hoodie and the pretreat it's gonna take if you're not sure how much you want to put you can obviously use a parchment sheet and or reduce the amount of space that you're free treating and go ahead and pretreat in a couple different settings you kind of get the sweet spot for you as far as pretreat goes to minimize putting too much down and spending too much money there but you definitely want to make sure because the weave is a lot thicker or more open you're gonna require more pretreat on this chain good lay down a bit perfect Thank You Ryan just to be clear so when we pretreat a t-shirt with the pretreat or the speech reader we're normally set at about five so on this you're turning it up to six to put down a little bit more that's correct okay great another question that we have from Mike is are there risers for the standard Epson 14 by 16 platen and it doesn't sell risers okay so basically it's a specialized platen from Matson that is just used for that function with the living stand the tuck locks the 14 16 and the 16 20 you can use them as standard platen they also sell pocket risers which are just small little square pieces the lifter pockets up as well so you're not just limited to using it for zippered hoodies perfect thank you so if I had an f7 14 by 16 platen is there a workaround I've heard of that you might be able to use a mouse pad yes you can use a mouse pad but you would have to use two of them and make sure that they're positioned similar to these risers that may require cutting them and depending on the size of the sweatshirt as well you may need to use more than two you may need to use four awesome okay okay what pressure are are you are you set at on the heat press the heat press I'm giving it number three on the pressure gauge on this hoodie I normally do one to a two on a t-shirt but on the hoodie I'm adding a little bit more because I want to make sure my zipper zippered area this one's been pressed it's been completely flat and not going to be opening up when I go through the print process as you can see so Fred that medium pressure you'd say it's probably about medium I would say okay three is about medium perfect as you start getting up to four to five to six that's more in the firm on pressure we have a great question from Scott asking why print United reaction uni-directional okay well basically with bi-directional printing which is twice as fast when the print heads moving the ink droplets are coming down and it's really gravity but it's almost like rain so as that heads streaming across the inks dropping down at an angle then when it goes the other way it drops down at an angle so you have to be at a perfect plane on where your print surfaces so if you have any consistencies with zippers even doing caps choose anything that's not completely flat printing over scenes as we are really doing with the zipper it's not completely even the surface so I want to make sure that I have a good focus when I lay down my ink and if you're laying down the ink in one direction it's a lot easier to print on something that's not completely flat and still get a good image as long as you're pretty much within range of the sorry yeah so I'll go ahead and let you look at this so do you hear so wow that looks amazing and that was easy yeah so what taking it off is a little tricky this is actually a medium hoodie so I'll come around here so it's fitting on the 1620 platen a little tight but I'm gonna pull my back end out first okay and start walking it forward then I pull my sides and then just grab it by the sleeves now when you press that boy we would do that one at a lighter pressure than what you did for the heat for the pretreat well basically what I want to do when I press this is I want to use ample pressure so depending on how much ink you're putting on the sweatshirt if the weave is spread out I want to add more ink the more ink I add the more I want to let this set okay so at this point I would actually be printing some hoodies and let them sit out on the table for a minute or two to allow that ink to start setting up because if you put too much pressure on it immediately what could happen is the white could come through and bubble through the blue and the red which I don't want to have happen so it's really better to let it sit for a few minutes before I go to press it or I could bring it over to my heat press and do a hover before I only do it the actual pressing now I would run over there and help you but this is fun watching you handle it by yourself okay right now before I actually gonna thread it to press it cuz I still I'm gonna thread it to press it now I did get Apple Inc as well enough to actually shoot a little line through the zipper if you want to look down here on the platen you can see a little white line of ink right there a little residual so you want to make sure you wipe that off so you're not getting it on the next garment we had a question from John about what brand of hoodies we're using today night I know that we're using cotton heritage which we're big fans of cotton heritage we also use what we do a WD that you can find on our website huh both print fantastic so those are the the brands that we're using another question see the longevity of the prints are very good obviously it's gonna be a little thicker as most cities do have but he printed way all the way to the edge where that zippers out so okay nice signature so what another question we just had is is the the surface that you're printing on the outside of the hoodie is that a 100% cotton on this specific one yes it is okay okay but we printed on some that aren't 100% oh yeah some 80 20s I've used in fact this particular hoodie is an 80/20 right here so they don't have to all be a hundred percent cotton but this one is a get my glasses out here sorry about that 6535 and then the face is 100% cotton okay perfect now let's just cover that timing and get on the heat press how long was that for on 90 seconds I just hovered it this time so I'm not really ready to press that yet I can let it sit for a minute longer or like I said if you got hoodies it does take longer to prep hoodies but there's more margin in hoodies as well as you know so at this point I could go ahead and thread it by the time I get that done or I could have been curing another garment as well okay while you're doing that have a question from Kevin should we pause after laying down the white to give the white a chance to start setting prior to putting the color on it you can do that but as you increase your levels on the white base it does two things it's not really like the color at all it actually stabilizes or even out or evens out how the white is put down so if you have areas like if you're printing at your normal setting where if you look sideways at the shirt when it does pop out where there's a little bit of ink that's that's wet looking or it's shiny that means it's definitely wet snow if it's Matt I'm Matt finish all the way across then that is a thinner amount of ink and it is setting up properly now keep in mind these sweatshirts are very thick so they are gonna absorb the moisture or the water content from the ink faster than a t-shirt will so they should set up just about the same as a shirt as far as that goes and taking the second pass of date you don't want to add time unnecessarily but when you go up from zero which is normal to 25% or 250 or 275 or a hundred each time you go up it's adding a little bit more ink but it actually smooths out how the ink is distributed because if you've ever looked at your white base with just the normal setting it looks almost like a grayscale image of what you're gonna print as you continue to go up from 25 to 50 to 75 or 100 it actually starts closing that in and smoothing it out to where at a hundred you have a 100% solid white base but it's not as much ink as you would think so the cost doesn't go up that much on a typical design like the long we just printed it may go up five to ten cents on a hundred percent versus a twenty five is actually within a penny plus or minus of not changing it at all because all it does is take some of the heavy areas and we distribute that ink to the lighter hopefully I answered that I'm sorry I didn't catch that could you repeat that yeah just say that right that just shows you everybody how lucky we are to have Roy he knows more about this than anybody I've met so really we're really lucky to have him doing this okay another question it is in the other window here we go when curing should we use a heat pillow because of this zipper no no pillows typically are only used for sublimation to keep the papers firing or the picture framing that never goes away from paper and doing transfers with dissect so I would never use pillows on any type of DTG awesome okay and I'll just put a plug in for dye sublimation real quick while we're wrapping this up growing on dice we also sell that so you're welcome Kevin alright do we have any other questions man did we just nail it all in about 25 minutes we're really good aren't alright I wanna thank you guys for your time today jeff is running out over here I was behind the computer I'm in front of the camera that's right hey thanks everybody feel free to give us a call you can email me Jeff dot M at equipment zone comm you can also email support at equipment zone.com if you let if you have a question for Roy and stay tuned for our other tags yeah that's alright thanks Roy alright everybody have a great day have a good one he's safe