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hey guys today's exciting day in the workshop we have a new printer so we have been working and printing on these uh printers for a while and they have long bowden tubes and for you guys building those airplanes you know that there's a ton of retraction settings with uh building these airplanes and it's just a pain to get all that stuff adjusted so i think the answer to that is going to be a direct drive printer so i have my first direct drive printer this artillery sidewinder the artillery has a couple printers this is their larger printer and they have a smaller printer also that is also direct drive so i'm hoping that this direct drive printer is going to be answered having a really good quality print on these airplane parts and the best thing is it's affordable i'm going to unbox this throw some prints on there and then i'm going to give you guys a full review on what this is i'm going to print an airplane out and i'm going to show you guys how it actually works for printing out airplane parts okay so check this out this printer is really easy to set up there's basically just two parts to it there's the rack and the base unit so you just need to secure the two parts together using the supplied allen screws set the spool holder on the top and make sure all the cables are connected plug it in and then just level the bed and the bed leveling is really easy on this printer has really easy access screws to get to to level the bed it comes with a supplied usb drive to transfer the stl files over where you can plug it in directly to your computer also i really like the touch screen display on this uh printer it's very responsive and very clear colors it's really easy to access some of them are kind of like an older style touch screen this one this touch screen is really uh sensitive and really works very well okay now that we have our new printer set up we can throw on some pla throw some stl files in there and 47 hours later of continuous printing we will have one of these a nicely completed fuselage to my next build but wait before we can 3d print all these parts out we have a couple things we need to figure out on our new printer the first thing that we need to figure out is the flow settings so in printing thin wall it's very important to make sure that when you're printing line width 0.4 that you're actually going to get 0.4 millimeter line width and that is involved in the flow settings so in some of my printers i have to turn up my flow settings up to like 115 almost 120 percent flow to get a 0.4 millimeter line width and that depends usually on the speed that i'm printing at or just the printer in general so for this printer the first thing that i'm going to print on this is a flow test and what that is is just a square box i set my cura settings to continue spiral mode and then i'm going to print one layer thickness on the wall and do a continuous print and it's in a square shape and then once i get the print i'll get a just a little square like this and i'll take a caliper and use the caliper on the edge and verify that i have .40 millimeters wall thickness so now that we have that i have verified that i can print at 100 flow rate and i can get a 0.4 millimeter wall thickness now i know i can leave my flow settings at 100 for this printer now the next thing that we need to do is a retraction test now if you're going to print your normal pieces out like you know if you're not printing airplane parts out then you can probably leave all your stock settings alone and get pretty good quality prints with this printer but you guys know out there that are printing airplanes that there's a lot more settings that need to be adjusted uh before you can start printing out all your airplane parts so that way you get the right weights and the printer comes out really nice quality so the next thing we gotta do is a retraction test so the first thing i did was i just put on this retraction test and i used the stock settings the stock settings were two millimeter retraction zero prime at 40 millimeters per second this can be improved a lot this is with the stock settings and i improved it to this here on the right and what i ended up coming up with is that the best setup for this was to slow the retraction speed down significantly so i retract at 10 millimeters per second which is much slower than i usually retract at because it's a direct drive printer i did a whole bunch of different tests i sped it up i slowed it down uh i did different retraction amounts different prime amounts and this is what i came up with it works very well and i've printed out an entire airplane using 1.3 millimeter retraction at 10 millimeters per second with 0.2 of prime with all the initial settings set up i started printing out the fuselage for the ask140 glider by planeprint these parts came out amazing this is the best quality print that i have had on any one of my airplanes this printer is working very well for this thin wall printing there are a couple issues with it that i'll talk about here just later on in this video but these parts came out awesome this is going to be my number one printer from now on uh to be using this is uh just assembling the ask 104 glider if you guys haven't seen uh my channel before i build all these 3d printed airplanes so make sure to you know subscribe to my channel and check out some of these 3d printed airplanes that i've been building once i got the printer i spent about half a day just setting up the settings got those flow settings those retractions are the most important part to get your thin walls looking good so once i got that set up i was able to print off this entire fuselage and all these wing parts this is a 2.5 meter glider the biggest airplane that i've built so far over 170 hours just in printing this and i've printed a bunch of other stuff too for other planes just to test out some different materials all the prints came out perfectly i had no failed prints as far as retraction or priming settings at all the only failed prints i had i got a fuselage part that failed and a couple of wing parts that failed and they were caused from bed adhesion problems i've printed out a whole bunch of different materials with this printer uh just with this airplane alone i have petg clear here i've got this is pla on the fuselage i have petg white for the wing i have lightweight pla for the tail i have a regular tpu for the tires and i've also printed out some uh varisher tpu from color fab for the savage bobber the smaller bobber the plain brain has i printed out the tires for that just to test out that uh that material i've printed out a whole bunch of materials and it's been working really well uh but there are a couple things i want to cover with you guys so first thing is the bed adhesion so you know it's pretty common glass bed you know there's all kinds of stuff out there for you know why how to fix glass beds or make a better and heat and all that kind of stuff but us building all these airplane parts and these thin wall stuff we have an extra challenge to it because we you know how big this wing is how skinny it is but how limited amount of bed contact i mean that is very limited pla actually touching the bed for adhesion so that causes an extra challenge for this printer i first started off by adding some tape to the bed i taped the whole bed and i used that for a little while and then i ended up using glue sticks which i didn't really want to use glue sticks because it kind of gets all gunky and get it cleaned up once in a while and stuff so i didn't really want to use glue sticks but i did try that for a little while uh and then what ultimately ended up working the best for me was for the uh wing and the fuselage overtrip pla or ptg they come with like an overture bed plate mat like this and it has a sticky adhesive on the back so you can unstick it put it on the bed and this is 200 millimeters by 200 millimeters which is the maximum size for any of the parts for all these airplanes that i built on my channel so you know these wing parts will fit right on there diagonally so i ended up putting this on the center of the bed and that worked for most the parts and then some of the parts i had actually used a little bit of glue actually on this actual build plate also uh and that helped quite a bit uh but i've had you know like the first piece i had was actually the worst warping i've actually had it just is very very warped and part of it's because it's with petg which ptg has problems with working also how you can minimize petg you're usually printing at like 230 to 250 uh celsius so i printed this at 240 and then something else i usually do in my printing room here i usually have the window open because when i have like two or three printers running it can get pretty warm in here it's all the window open just to kind of let it cool down a little bit um but that's not good to do with petg because as the film is printing it's cooling and then it warps it so i ended up closing the window keeping a little bit warmer in the room and that helped a little bit also and then i ended up having to use a brim on a lot of parts which i usually don't like to use or i don't use them usually but i end up using a brim that bed plate from overture and some glue so a combination between all three of those i was able to get all the parts printed out for this airplane that i'm building right now so one more thing that i didn't really like with this printer was the pla rack so with the different filaments and all the different materials i'm using they're between different companies or different materials themselves the roll width is different on all the materials so then you have to take your three millimeter wrench loosen up half of the rack slide it to the left or right and then you know tighten it back up and then along with you know heating up your extruder and changing out the filament so just one extra step that you have to do when you're changing out filaments so one more thing you have to be careful with this printer is because it is a direct drive printer there's a lot of weight right here on this system here where the extruder is at so when it's printing if you have the settings too fast it will actually create a little bit of a bubble when it comes around the edge of this printer so as it comes around here and it comes around the front if you have it set too fast i got a little bit of bubble right here on this edge it's like kind of like a rough edge and you can see it on the elevator of the ask 1 4 on one side of it it's a little bit textured on the surface and on the other side smooth because i slowed it down after i realized what was going on for this printer other than a few problems i had with bed adhesion and some speed with the extruder really this printer has just been amazing i've been just printing off all kinds of parts i've got the next two airplanes that are ready to go and pla ordered so as soon as i'm 10 with this video i'm going to be throwing it back up and throwing stl files on it it's going to be continuing to print for a very long time this is going to be my number one printer to use from now on for all my airplanes i'm going to have all my settings down in the description below for my surface layer 3 for plain print airplanes and so you guys can check out the settings that i use i have another thin wall printing video up on youtube i'll throw a link up for that too in the cards here so you guys can click on that if you guys are having more problems with your thin wall printing and i go a little bit more in depth in that video about some settings and cura and everything so thank you guys so much for watching this video uh and i'll see you guys in the next build where i'll be finishing up this ask one ford glider