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display calibration yeah it's one of those eat your broccoli kind of things right everyone says you should be doing it every few weeks in fact for the truly obsessive but why i mean what problem does it solve well in this video i'm going to calibrate my imac using a spyder x pro from datacolor to see if it makes any difference stick around good to see you once again i'm todd domini later in this video i'll be calibrating my late 2017 retina imac using the spyder x pro calibrator from datacolor i've calibrated this display numerous times before using a different calibrator made by x right but datacolor contacted me recently and asked if i'd like to give their spider x a try and i'm curious to see how their calibration process is different and whether their calibrator produces similar results i mean let's hope it does because otherwise it'll be hard to know which calibrator is right we'll see those results in a minute and i'll also be answering some common questions about calibration and setting up your workspace for optimal editing towards the end of this video but before we get ahead of ourselves let's answer a basic question what exactly does calibration do to understand calibration we need to define two frequently confused terms color space and color gamut the color space of your display the one you edit photos or videos on is either an srgb or dci p3 display srgb is the standard most common type of display it's been around for years dci p3 is what apple retina and other more modern wide gamut displays use srgb and dci p3 are color spaces but they're also sometimes called color gamuts which is similar but not quite the same gamut is a defined range of colors inside the color space if you get color space and color gamut confused think of color space as a box and color gamut as the range of colors inside the box by the way if you've ever heard someone talk about colors being in or out of gamut in gamut means a color is inside the box it is a color supported by the color space out of gamut means a color is outside the box and is not supported by the color space this means the color can't be displayed on a screen or printed on paper whether your display is srgb or dc ip3 it means the manufacturer of your display designed and engineered its hardware to display that particular color space standards like srgb and dci p3 are great because when manufacturers support the same color space it makes the experience better for all of us instead of them just choosing whatever random colors they'd like to use but there's a wrinkle in standardization all displays may be technically capable of displaying the same range of color but there's a qualitative difference in how faithfully each display replicates those colors this happens because displays are made by different companies using different hardware and components this misalignment that can happen between input the color you want and output the color you see can affect your creative decision making it's analogous to driving a car in need of alignment if a car pulls to the left you have to turn the wheel slightly towards the right to make the car go straight non-calibrated displays are the same you have to use incorrect colors in your work in order to see the correct colors on screen now the seriousness of this misalignment is typically not that dramatic i mean some displays are accurate enough right out of the box but every display can be improved even the most expensive professional displays that are sold pre-calibrated for thousands of dollars the way i see it if i'm willing to invest lots of money and countless hours of time and energy into my work then i want to make sure i can trust my display trust that what i'm seeing is correct even if calibration only makes subtle tweaks all right so let's calibrate the cymac when you pull the spider x out of the box you'll see that has a plastic cap here on the back of the of the hardware you just pull that cap off and then this cap acts as a counterweight that hangs on the back of your display and the sensor here is then on the front so i'll just go ahead and put this up here but here we are this is uh the beginning of the calibration and we need to go through a little wizard uh thing here which is actually i think pretty helpful uh first is your display warmed up yes it's been on for at least 30 minutes any weird lighting conditions like do you have are you sitting in front of a window or anything like that nope uh next one down display controls this one is you just want to make sure that whatever display you're using that you have res that you have reset the display back to its default you know factory settings when you pulled it out of the box so just you know reset it all the way back and then you can move on uh is the spider plugged in yes it's currently plugged in we'll go to next i'm using a desktop and we're going to go next now it is automatically figured out that i'm using an apple display but as you can see if we open up this menu here that there are plenty of other ones that it supports as well now it is guessed that because i'm using an imac from apple that i have control over over brightness because you can do it on the on the keyboard but i don't have access to uh kelvin presets i probably haven't changed color temperature so that is unchecked so yes i do have control over brightness so i'm going to leave that checked and then we move on to the next one and this one's kind of interesting so now it's asking what type of backlight the led display is using and by default it is using a wide led because as i said earlier this is a retina display which means it is a wide gamut dci p3 display so the software is already guessed yep you're using a wide led so we're going to select that so here we are calibration settings now you have three options here you can either recalibrate check your current calibration or perform a full calibration you would do the first option recal if you've calibrated your display once before using the spyder x it's just a an optimized way um of doing it it's a time saving thing because then it's it's reusing some data that it used before check calibration is just a way to check and see how accurate the current calibration profile is that you're currently using with your display and then the third option is full calibration this is the one that you would use if you've never calibrated your display and it's actually selected here by default underneath that we have the current target settings with gamma 2.2 a white point value of 6500 and a brightness value of 120. all that is good i mean gamma 2.2 is standard um gamma 4 computer displays that's what we want white point 6 500 yes and brightness value of 120. now brightness is the kind of thing that most people set to somewhere between 90 and 130s somewhere in there it really depends on how much ambient light you have in the room some people like to set that number low to something like 100 if they're doing print work because paper tends to paper doesn't have the same luminosity as the screen does so they like to set their displays pretty dark but 120 is pretty much the standard that's pretty much where you want it to be now if you click on change settings down here you can actually change some of those default values you'll see here that this is the gamma curve you can do 1.8 2.0 uh 2.2 which is the default in gamma 2.4 gamma 2.4 for example i talked about this in last week's video that is the gamma value of broadcast television so if you are doing uh primarily video editing work for broadcast tv and the rec 709 color space then it may make sense to be calibrating using 2.4 but 2.2 for like web use and general use is correct for a standard desktop laptop what have you uh white point 6500 yep we're going to leave it there the last setting here room light is really interesting and actually very important because it is on by default so you need to know what's going on the spyder x has a little sensor here on the back of it and this sensor reads the ambient light in your room it takes a measurement and it sees how bright or how dark it currently is and then it uses that information to inform how much brightness and how much contrast it creates as part of your calibration profile so that it accounts for uh the room that you're currently in personally i prefer turning this off because i'd rather target specific numerical values for brightness and contrast and all that and not let the room that i'm currently in affect the calibration profile that's corrected um i mean it's the kind of thing that you can calibrate with on and calibrate with off and see what the difference is and see what works best for you personally i like to turn it off so i'm just going to turn this off now this is the point in which you move the spider around and you want to get it right into the center of where it's telling you to put it and then click next so before we get into color we need to adjust the brightness of our display and i think this step alone is probably one of the most important steps that that you can do as part of the calibration process because i would bet a lot of people out there are just using their displays using the default brightness which is probably maximum brightness or the operating system is automatically adjusting it for you and brightness can have a huge effect on your perception of of shadows and blacks especially if you're making prints things like that i've talked about this in a different video before but brightness is really really important now what it's doing here is that over here on the right you'll see you know the target which is 120 candela per square meter i think is if i remember right i think that's what that is and it's reading that the current brightness value of my display is 108.108.2 candela per square meter so my display isn't overly bright let me actually just crank this all the way up to default brightness click update and it comes in at 456 um candela per square meter which is crazy bright that is just way way too bright so what you want to do now because i'm using an imac i just do this on the keyboard i just bring it down and you have to click update each time you raise and lower the brightness now something that uh this is actually a pretty awesome tip that i picked up somewhere a while back when you adjust the brightness it tends to do you know pretty large steps and you can actually do like micro adjustments to brightness instead what you want to do is just hold down option and shift on the mac keyboard and then use the brightness keys and when you do that then the brightness the increments are much much smaller so you can just raise it let me see update i'm at 126 so i'm just going to rate lower that down a little bit 113 bring that back up update boom i'm at 120 exactly which is pretty remarkable i think and then i'm going to hit continue and now it's going to go through the rest of the calibration process including measuring all of the colors on this display all right it's done and so now it's telling me to move the spider out of the way because it's no longer needed now it's going to ask you to save this profile that you just created now something i would recommend doing is to put dates in here because it's just going to say apple imac by default so i'm just going to say um let's keep imac so i'm going to do imac 2021 01 27 and you can also like put in with something like spider x if you want if you're using multiple calibrators and you just want to make sure that you're i don't know choosing the right one so let's click save it is now saved to the local hard drive it's now loaded by the operating system and now i'm using a calibrated profile on my display and then we come to this part here and this is where you can view the difference between calibrated and non-calibrated i mean not only can you see the difference in the in the photos that are presented here but you can see the difference everywhere on the display so now we're in system preferences we're looking at the display preference pane and we're taking a look at the icc profile that was created by the spyder x now it's currently loaded that's what my imac is currently using now what should be interesting is if we go back to imac which is the default icc profile that the imac shipped with you can definitely tell if you just switch back and forth between the two the imac default uh icc profile it makes the display look cooler the colors are just a little more saturated there's more contrast whereas the spyder x calibrator profile it's almost like the the display looks a little more matte it's almost like it has more of a matte finish it's not quite as saturated not quite as punchy and the white balance is definitely different i mean it's more i mean to my eyes it almost looks warmer now but i think that's because i just got accustomed to how the imac looks using its default profile which is cooler it definitely uses a cooler color temperature than the calibrated profile does now as i mentioned earlier in this video i have calibrated this display a number of times before but never with the spider x i've always calibrated using a different calibrator made by xrite so what i'm really curious to see is what's the difference between the calibrated profile created by the spyder x compared to the one from x right so right now i have the spyder x profile loaded and this one here i know i created with the x right model and it's using all the same settings so if we click on that and then go back to the spyder x and then back up to the x right i mean there's a little bit of a difference i mean it looks like the one from x from x right has a little more saturation maybe just a little more contrast compared to the spider x but they are so similar to each other and honestly i mean this makes me this makes me feel a lot better because i was really worried that like the spider x was going to give me a completely different result than than the one from x right because well then who do you trust right i mean which one do you use and i've been using a calibrated profile from x-rite for quite a while now so the fact that both of them are so close to one another i think is actually really really helpful information because then in some ways i don't think it it matters that much i mean which calibrator you use as long as you are calibrating and the good thing is is that both of them are providing very very similar results now i'm going to get to the q a here in just a minute but if you have just a few minutes to hang with me here this is actually something that's really interesting if you want to look a little bit closer at what's going on with these icc profiles on the mac you just launched color sync utility this is the one that i just created using the spyder x and you can twist and turn this space around here this is by the way the color gamut that i referred to earlier it's not the flat two-dimensional version it's the three-dimensional version the interesting thing about color sync is that you can actually compare two profiles against one another and see the differences between them so let me go over here and select imac that is the default icc profile of this display click on this little drop down arrow here select hold for comparison and then it's going to turn gray and you'll understand why that is in just a minute then i'm going to go back and select the spider x and what it's doing now is that it is presenting both profiles together the one that has been held by comparison held for comparison is the default icc profile and the one that's in color is the new one so what you can do is spin this around and see how much of a difference it made like what was adjusted because anything that's gray it means that those colors in in the um in the original gamut were shifted it represents a difference between the new profile and the old profile so we can see here that there was a definite difference in some of the reds and the oranges up here perhaps those were a little too saturated before those were pulled in looks like there was some shifting going on here and some of the more unsaturated reds and oranges and there's also a little bit of difference in the very dark very saturated deep blues and purples as [Music] well all right so question one about calibration is calibration enough perhaps but you should take a moment and also think about the environment in which you edit do you have a warm lamp sitting on your desk right next to your display are your walls painted red blue or even just beige similar to a non-calibrated display a non-neutral work environment can influence your eyes and affect the creative decisions you make on screen a few recommended products to look into one consider painting at least the wall behind your display a neutral color or if you're moving around you could go just get a large piece of drywall and paint that and put that behind your desk up against the wall for paint you don't want to buy just off-the-shelf gray paint because chances are it's not actually neutral it's gray with a little bit of color mixed into it so to make absolutely sure that the paint you're using is perfectly neutral there's a type of paint out there that's called gti standard gray or if that paint is too much for your budget use this paint recipe created by display company flanders scientific you may take this recipe to your neighborhood hardware store and ask them to make it for you i'll link to that recipe below if you'd like to give it a try and let me know if you do feel free to reach out to me on instagram and share an image two use neutral lighting buy led bulbs with high cri values and daylight color temperatures at or near 5600 kelvin one product i really like is the medialite led strip they're self-adhesive they plug into the back of a display via usb and they provide perfectly neutral ambient light behind the screen this adds light to minimize eye fatigue but without adding color that may influence your creative work and you can use these on televisions as well question two will calibration make my display look better well if you're researching calibration thinking it will make the visual experience of your display better you don't need to buy a calibrator as a matter of fact calibrating your display as demonstrated earlier will likely make the display dimmer and less vibrant so there's no point in calibration unless you are producing content that will be printed or viewed elsewhere question three will calibration make multiple displays appear the same similar but not exactly as mentioned earlier different displays use different hardware and components so there will always be some inherent differences between them but their respective color accuracy will improve and be more similar than they would otherwise be question four can i share a calibrator like the spyder x with other people yes the end user license agreement for the data color spider x permits use with one or more displays at a single physical location so if you work in a studio with other people who also need calibration one device may be enough as a matter of fact for studios there is an elite version of the spyder x which includes studio match software designed for calibrating and syncing multiple displays together i haven't used that but it is an option question five can i calibrate a display once and be done with it i mean yeah you could i mean you could borrow a calibrator and then return it after you uh after you've calibrated a display but something you should remember is that displays can and will change over time they're not they're not frozen in amber from the moment you take them out of a box they do change just through normal wear and tear that's why calibration software has reminders built in so that you remember to recalibrate every few weeks maybe every couple of months depending on your workflow and how color critical it is generally speaking you want to be doing it i would say at least once a month maybe once every couple of months just to make sure that what you're seeing is still accurate thanks to datacolor for providing me with the spider x by the way um i happen to notice if you're interested in picking one of these up data color is currently running a special at their website which is a bundled version of the spyder x that includes the spyder x elite which is the same thing as this one here as the pro it just comes with slightly more advanced software and uh functionality and that bundle also includes a spider x card which is like a color checker passport it's something you can use for um for photography or for video to make sure that your colors are calibrated and it also includes a cube which is this you know little three-dimensional i've never used one of these but it's something you can put in your shot and use it for white balance you could use it for uh setting a white point and a black point and i assume that you could probably use it for you know focusing as well and all this stuff comes together in a silver briefcase looking thing which is i don't know it's kind of cool definitely something a little bit fancier than just this cardboard box and the nice thing is is that they're selling all of this for less money than what the spyder x elite costs by itself so if that special is still going on uh you might want to check that out i'll link to the data color website below if you enjoyed the video you learned something from it please remember to give it a thumbs up and if you have any questions or comments please feel free to use the comment section below also if you'd like to keep in touch in the future and see more videos from me then remember to hit the subscribe button as well that's it for me everyone i'll see you next time