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this is a multi-channel digital radio controller that is based on the Arduino and has an early display so we could find adjust the values that we send I've already made a few radio controllers on this channel and all those were quite good controllers but each had a little problem the reason that I'm now making a new one is because a lot of you guys asked me in the comments how to make a more commercial look radio controller now the last controller tutorial function exactly as any other commercial controller you send the data from the joysticks and receive a bit of M signals of 1,000 to 2,000 microseconds but it had a very homemade look and also the joystick quality was awful and a lot of you guys said in the comments that you can't compare that with a commercial radio controller that's why I've decided to make a new one that is still homemade and cheap but it uses very good quality joysticks it can be also digitally tuned using push buttons and an OLED display it has a charging system and internal battery it is still based on the Arduino and uses the NRF 24 radio module and best of all I've designed and 3d printed a nice-looking case for it in this project I will explain all the steps that you need to follow in order to make this radio controller I'm sharing all the parts the schematics and designs in case that you want to make one yourself we'll make a transmitter and a receiver just as any other commercial radio controller with the PWM signal before we start make sure you hit the subscribe button and the notification bell in order to see my future projects also thanks to all my patrons for the support so let's get started [Music] project sponsored by Chelsea PCB you could order 10 high-quality PCBs for only two dollars you can select the board thickness the color of your solder mask gold-plated pads for better connections and the process is very fast so you would receive the boards in a couple of days I use their services for all my PCBs and I always get good results and more professional projects upload the Gerber's to Jersey PCB and order the boards for very low prices what's up my friends welcome back we start by looking on what this controller could do we have the transmitter and the receiver this system has six channels but it could have up to 32 which is the maximum accepted by the NRF 24 radio module so we receive those six channels and create a PWM signal on each pin of the receiver as you can see here on my oscilloscope and this is exactly how my commercial 8010 radio controller works so to make sure that the received signal is okay on the radio transmitter we have an OLED screen so we could see the value that we are sending for each channel also each axis of the joystick has push buttons so we could increase or decrease the value in case that the joysticks are not exactly in the middle position and not just that but the configuration gets saved onto the EEPROM of the Arduino so even if you restart the controller we will still have the same values the 3d printed case has an on and off sliding switch and on the top part we have four more channels two of these channels are digital so they are just to toggle switches and the other two are analog so two more potentiometers I am using all the energy input of the Arduino for other stuff so for now these potentiometers won't be connected okay so on the back part of the case there is a DC jack so we could charge the battery pack that we have inside on the screen we can also see the battery level so we should know when to charge the battery and we also have a buzzer inside that will beep if the battery is low you can also enable or disable the sound and the control has two modes linear or exponential the received signal is a PWM signal just as any other controller has or if you upload the PPM code you can get an 8 channel ppm signal inside of the case we have three big lithium-ion batteries connected in series so a voltage of around 12 volts this is charged using a 3s BMS board connected to a buck converter so in that way we always have two 0.6 volts applied to the batteries all the joysticks buttons Putin shouters and switches are connected to the Arduino and the Arduino is connected to the radio module to supply this module with 3.3 volts I've used this very small back converter the 3.3 volts from the Arduino is not powerful enough and the radio connection won't work and also the radio receiver is just another Arduino with some male pins as any other radio receiver so let's get started with this project the first thing we will look at is the most important part of this radio controller and that part are the joysticks in my past tutorials I've used these small joystick but these are awful for a basic radio control car this might work but for drones for example you won't get good control in another old project I'd use the joysticks from a secondhand controller and those were quite good but today I'm using these big joysticks that are using good quality potentiometers good gimbal system and they cost only around $4 each they also have this rubber cover so they will look good on my Twitter printed case ok so next we need some batteries I've used three of these 18 650 batteries that I took out from an old laptop battery to charge these batteries we need a boost converter to set the voltage a BMS circuit to protect the batteries a DC jack that will be the main input and a DC adapter with a voltage from 9 volts up to 12 volts okay guys so now that the power part is covered we need an Arduino of course this has the 5 volts regulator so we could supply this directly with the battery pack of 12 volts but next we need the NRF 24 radio module with the amplified antenna for this we need another very small buck converter module that will give us 3.3 volts because the 3.3 voltage from the Arduino can deliver enough current for the radio module that's why we use an external converter we also need to toggle switches to extra potentiometers a sliding switch like this one to turn on the controller of course an OLED display then we need a bunch of push buttons and probably a buzzer for the sound notifications for the receiver we only need another Arduino the small an electronic for a new module and a ms1 one once have a regulator a PCB and some male pins and that's pretty much it for the electronics that we need for this project okay guys we also need the 3d printed case that I've designed in blender it is printed with PLA material and has spaces for everything you will also need to print the plastic buttons and extra parts you can download all these files from below and you also have the schematic the codes and all the steps so this is all that we need to start mounting this project the schematic is simple but it could look a little bit complicated because it has a lot of connections download it from below and have it in front of you during this project so first thing that I do is to get the button to repeat it case and check how to place the batteries then what I do is to connect the DC jack to the boost converter after that I plug the DC adapter to the input I power it and I rotate the potentiometer until I have 12 point 6 volts at the output which is the charging voltage for the battery pack make sure that you glue the potentiometer in order to be sure that it will always stay at 12 or 6 volts now I connect the converter output to the BMS input the BMS port has connections for each battery in the trace battery pack so connect those wires as in the schematic from the batteries to the BMS board now I solder two wires at the BMS output and now I could glue the entire power system onto the backside of the case it has special design spaces for the batteries and the DC jack okay guys now I put a button part aside and let's start with the top part first thing that we do is to put all the push buttons for that I take these small plastic parts and place two push buttons on each like this now I have all these parts with the push buttons then I place the 3d printed plastic button inside of the hole of the case and on top of that I add the plastic part with the push buttons and screw that in place I do this for all the small push buttons now I take the sliding switch and these two parts as you can see I can slide the plastic part and that will turn on the switch so first I glue the switch inside of the plastic holder then I place on top of that the sliding part now I take this entire part and place it here on the hole on the top part of the case and glue that in place with some hot glue now my case has a sliding switch for on and off I now place the potentiometers and the toggle switches and they add some wires for five bolts ground and signal for each I can now add the plastic knobs to the potentiometers okay guys now I solder wires from all four potentiometers of the joysticks once I have that I pass the joysticks and the rubber pad and I fit those like this on the top part of the case make sure that one pot and shouter is facing upwards and the other one to the exterior of the case so we will have more space for the other buttons add the plastic washer and screw the joystick in place onto the case next I glue this Arduino Nano here on the support we have this hole here so later we could connect the USB cable and program the Arduino without opening the case I also glue the other display in place using some hot glue after I solder four wires for power data and Clark now I solder the resistors and wires from all the push buttons just as in the schematic now it's time to wire everything to the Arduino I will use both toggle switches but I won't use the potentiometers for now since I have no more pins from the Arduino for the extra channels I solder everything but the 5 volts and ground cables I don't shoulder the radio module yet neither for that first what I've done was to remove the small potash ammeter and solder a bigger one to the small back converter board now I supply two volts at the input and I rotate the potentiometer till I get tripping three volts for the radio module now it's time to wire the radio module I solder all the cables for the SP communication and add the triple-t votes back converter and the VCC input as in the schematic then I glue the antenna to the case with some hot glue make sure that the used wires as short as you can so we will have less noise also you could wind ground around the miso and mostly cables since that will remove noise even more i've also connected a voltage divider between the v in pin and ground and connect that to an analog input so i could measure the battery voltage any time so all the wiring is done it's time to close the case I use some plastic three millimeter screws like this ones and close the case I had two screws on the top side and finally add another screw on the bottom part and the case is ready it's time to program it download the transmitter code from below and open it in arduino ide if you want read each line in the code to understand more also download and install the library for the oled display and the NRF 24 radio module i connect the USB cable to the arduino inside of the case and upload the code now i power on the transmitter with a sliding switch and i get the first beep and the logo on the screen then on the screen we can see if the sound is activated the battery level the 6 channel values and also the mode which can be linear or exponential since i don't have enough pores on my arduino for this I'm only sending four channels of the joysticks and the value of these two toggle switches okay guys if you press once this mode button you will go from linear to exponential or vice-versa now if you don't press the same button you will activate or deactivate the buzzer for some notifications as you can see now each time that I press a button we will hear a beep now if the joysticks are not exactly in the middle just use the push buttons to adjust the values the middle value should be exactly 127 for example the a channel is not in the middle I press the button till I have 127 now all the channels are in the middle the exponential or linear mode will just map the values following this type of curves the receiver is just a PCB with the Arduino the NRF 24 module and the MS 1-1 ones have a regulator for 2.3 volts the 5 volts power will be given from an ESC or any other device just as in case of a commercial controller I've also designed a case for the receiver that you could print ok guys as you can see now I connect 4 probes to the 4 channels of the receiver the receive signal is a PWM signal from 1,000 to 2,000 microseconds just as any other commercial radio controller we can change the width of each channel with the joysticks right now I have just channel 1 on my oscilloscope so we could see it better ok when the battery's low I connect the DC adapter on the back and charge up the battery back the BMS board will give me an overcharge or / discharge protection as well so this project is a success as always below you'll have the code for a ppm signal for the receiver so upload that to the receiver arduino in case that you want a ppm signal instead of PWM signals check the schematics for that as well below of this video so there you have it now you know how to make a better look radio transmitter made some tests with my older versions and they had good results up to 700 meters but you must use the power amplified antenna of the NRF 24 module for the transmitter if you can get the radio connection to work make sure that you are using an external powerful tripping tree voltage regulator for the radio module and use very short wires for the SP connection between the Arduino and the radio module below you have all that you need the STL files for the case the schematics the part list and the code for the transmitter and receiver okay so in general this transmitter has way better joysticks so that means better precision and better look it has an OLED display and digital fine-tune I provide all that you need for this project below and on my webpage electronic comm so consider supporting my projects on patreon I hope that you enjoy this project if so don't forget to click that button like crazy and share this video with your friends if you have any question about this video or any other just leave it in the comment section below or my Q&A page also don't forget to subscribe and watch all my other videos and remember if you consider helping my projects check my patreon page as well so thanks again and see you later guys [Music]