Print Simple Required with airSlate SignNow

Print initial fact

hey there my beautiful friends you are looking especially beautiful today just thought I'd throw that out there how's it going it's Devin here with make anything and this is the Ella goomar's resin printer my mini factory Edition that's why it's got this cool green color that's a little special edition flare for you won't affect the quality of prints but I am a fan of the color so today is gonna be an interesting video because I am looking at this a legume our 3d printer it's a resin printer and if you follow this channel you may have noticed I don't really get near these things too often because resin printing requires some strange things like safety and precaution it's wild but today we're gonna go ahead and try to exercise safety and precautions in order to get a beautiful print off of this elgu Mars printer this will be my first time ever touching a DLP printer like this so can I get a successful print will it be absolutely beautiful let's find out cool the first awesome thing about this printer is that it comes pretty much completely assembled remove a bit of protective foam and we're ready to go we've also got this little box of accessories to help us get started it has tools like the scraper flush cutters it's got some latex gloves some filters for the resin and these little respirator masks though I'll probably use my own 3m mask just to be totally safe we can go ahead and power up the machine lift up the z-axis and attach the build plate which lifts up from the bottom we'll screw that into place and then unscrew these two screws here which allow us to level the bed it's a pretty simple process you remove the Vette and put down a single sheet of paper we'll press this leveling button right here and then the ellegua arse goes ahead and automatically lowers itself to the correct position and since those leveling screws are loose the bed will automatically lay flush against the screen that sheet of paper not only protects the screen but it also makes sure that we have the exact little tiny gap between the VAT and the build plate that is required to get a successful print I also put a little bit of lubricant on these II axes here since it was squeaking a tiny bit just to be safe and now we can go ahead lift up our build plate put the VAT into place and then I'll run this quick test exposure to make sure that the UV LCD screen is running there we go the test rectangle does show up nice and clear so that means everything should be good to go it's really important to have a clean environment free of dust so I'm using this little bulb duster to blow away any little bits of dust that I can see that's not included it's usually for photography but I found that it works really well for this purpose all right everything's clean the VAT is in place so I'll put on my respirator and my gloves and go ahead and open up our resin I'll be using this ABS like resin by a Lagoo as a resin this isn't actually abs but apparently it has similar properties so we'll go ahead and see if that's true we'll go ahead and give that bottle a nice power shake and then we'll slowly fill up the VAT from one corner which helps reduce the amount of bubbles inside of our resin once that's settled we can put on our protective lid and select our first printing file this little touch screen is nice and responsive and it even gives us a nice 3d preview of our file as soon as we hit that play button the build plate will lower down into the VAT of resin and the print will begin well I guess now is a good time to explain exactly how a DLP printer like this works as you saw the build plate of this printer is actually suspended upside down and it moves up and down along this the axis then at the bottom of the printer we have our VAT which has a clear film on the bottom directly underneath that film we have this UV LCD screen we'll fill up our VAT with a photo polymer resin lower the build plate down into the Vette until there's just a tiny bit of space between the bottom of the VAT and the surface of that build plate at this point the LCD screen will project image of the first layer up towards that resin and that UV light will cause the resin to cure in between the build plate and the VAT it only takes a few seconds for that resin to harden at which point we can turn off the LCD display and lift the build plate out of the VAT hopefully taking that layer of resin with it now the build plate will lower back into the VAT but slightly further away from the bottom and that allows us to cure a new layer of resin on top of the first layer again we'll lift up the build plate to release that pressure lower it back down and expose our third layer that process will repeat over and over again curing one layer of resin at a time and that's basically how it can build up a very complicated 3d model once the model is fully constructed we can just pop it off of the build plate and there we have our resin printed part Wow very impressive so that's how this ellegua Mars printer works now the question is what are we going to print well I decided to go ahead and model out another one of my rejected animals from my Instagram page rejected animals and so I scrolled through all of my daily doodles until I found one that I was especially fond of and more importantly something that I could model in fusion 360 I ended up selecting our little creature here named Maz not to be confused with the name of our printer that Ella goo Mars anyways here's how Maz turned out modeled in fusion 360 as you can see here I split the model up into several parts which will hopefully make it easier to print and paint I did do a little work on this file after exporting it from fusion 360 in mesh mixer I kind of bent the ears a little bit more and I also smoothed out these little drippy bits to make it look a little bit more organic so that's the model we're printing today on our a legume RS and like I said I did split it up into a few parts for this first file I'm just printing the ears since it's the smallest part and well I got to make sure this printer works first here you can see the view of the printer as it's starting to print and you'll notice that you can't actually see what's happening for the beginning of the print since everything is submerged under our VAT full of resin it actually took over two hours before the print got to the point where I could peek underneath the build plate and that's when I noticed that we weren't actually printing anything so no luck on our first attempt let's go ahead and hang up our build plate at an angle using this little included accessory that allows any excess resin to drip into the VAT and then we're gonna have to drain our VAT so that we can get rid of any cured resin that happened from this failed print I followed the instruction manual which told me to use one of these paper filters and run the resin through the filter and into this little beaker somehow it took me way too long to realize that this beaker is way too small oh boy so there's our first blunder and it was quite a mess the resin was dripping underneath my table and just getting everywhere so I scrambled to clean everything up with paper towels and isopropyl alcohol I went through about five pairs of latex gloves and a whole lot of paper towels but eventually I did manage to get the situation under control huh definitely not the best start but let's go ahead and try it again before starting our second print I decided to go ahead and make some changes in chi2 box which is the slicer that we're using to prepare our models for the a legume ours as you can see the two ears here start from these little tiny points on the build plate and I had a hunch that that's the reason that the prints didn't stick one quick fix is to add a raft like this which creates more surface area at the beginning of the print and should help adhere the print to the build plate but for the second attempt I actually decided to print this leg model instead because this uses the automatically generated supports and rafts in this slicer and if those don't work I don't know what will so I saved this file to our flash drive plugged it into the a legume arse and filled up the VAT with a new batch of resin I selected our new model hit print and once again after a few hours I was met with an empty build plate after draining the resin from the VAT you can see here that the first layer of the file did in fact cure but the problem is it was sticking to the bottom of the VAT when it should be sticking to the top of the build plate this is exactly the problem I had the last time I tried printing with the resin two years ago so that was pretty frustrating but luckily there's a lot of information online about the a legume arse and how to troubleshoot issues like this so I went to the forums and tested out a few of the potential solutions one suggestion was to put thin strips of scotch tape on the sides of the LCD screen this creates a little air gap between the screen and the bottom of the VAT and that's meant to release possible suction between the screen and the film which could be causing this problem so I laid that tape down put in some new resin and started a print for the third time by now I realized that you don't actually have to see the print to know if it's printing there should be a little popping sound every time that the build plate lifts up and releases the resin from the bottom of the VAT and the fact that I wasn't hearing that told me that once again the print was not working unfortunately I had the same result as the last two attempts with the first few layers sticking to the bottom of the VAT and not the build plate the next potential fix that I read about online was to try lubricating the bottom surface of the VAT so after thoroughly cleaning the film with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel I applied a small amount of PTFE lubricant to this microfiber cloth and I wiped it directly on to the film making sure to cover every little bit of the surface for our fourth attempt I decided to try printing the body of our little rejected animal and finally after a few hours I caught a glimpse of something something actually printing here you can see it six hours in completing the final layers and here it is all done I left my print to hang up for a little while so that any excess resin could drip back into the VAT and then I went ahead and pried off our model into this tub of isopropyl alcohol it suggested to wash your print in a solution of 99% isopropyl alcohol so I was only able to get my hands on 91% alcohol and it still seemed to work after swishing that around for a while I'll transfer it to this second tub filled with warm soapy water and swish it around a bit more to wash off any excess alcohol and resin after that first successful print I went ahead and immediately ran my second print where I combined the legs and the ears into one single model and I was overjoyed to get a second successful print back to back from there I went ahead and followed the same procedure as the first print rinsing it off in alcohol and warm soapy water and now we just have to expose the models to some UV light to fully cure the resin for consistent results a lot of people will use a UV curing chamber but I don't have one so I just went ahead and left my models out in the California Sun for a few hours and that did the trick so now we have our fully cured models but there's still a mess of support material that we have to deal with and while it's easy enough to clip these off using the flush cutters provided with the ella goomar's I decided to go ahead and use my ultrasonic knife just because well I have an ultrasonic knife so I fired up my wonder cutter and started delicately cutting away all of this support material these tree supports generated by our slicer come off quite easily so you can see our ultrasonic knife kicking off quite a bit of resin dust so you want to be wearing a respirator and I also suggest wearing safety glasses when you're doing this because sometimes when supports break off they just rock it through the air also check out how flexible this material is I thought that was pretty cool anyways I finished up removing all of those supports and here's what I was left with as you can see layer lines are nearly invisible with this print and I was only printing at point zero five millimeter layer height when we could go down all the way to point zero one millimeters still there are some scuffs here and there maybe that's my own fault but also there were some slightly warped areas near the bottom of the print where you can see these little drips bending outward when they weren't modeled like that and I think that was the result of only having a single support connect to each one of these drips so I could have prevented that by planning my supports a little bit better while cutting off the support materials is easy they definitely do leave a mark here you can see me using some 220 grit sandpaper to gently scrape off the little nubs that are left behind and luckily this material does sand way easier than the PLA plastic I'm used to working with with these legs and the ears that I'm gonna be painting on top of I don't actually have to sand beyond 220 grit because I'm gonna be spraying this with some filler primer so I'll set these parts up in my little makeshift spray booth and I'll give these models a quick spritz as for the body here I wanted to try something different I already really like the color and softness that this resin has to it so instead of just painting over it I wanted to see if I could sand this to a smooth finish so I'll move on from that 220 grit sandpaper onto this 400 grit sandpaper and I'll start wet sanding this model using that same soapy water that I rinsed the parts off in earlier wet sanding is nice because the water acts as a lubricant to help get a smoother finish and it also keeps the dust from flying into the air plus it looks like our little fella here is enjoying it here's the model after that 400 grit pass and as you can see it's pretty smooth at this point but there are still some clear scratches on the surface so now we'll move up to 600 grit sandpaper and continue wet sanding here we are sanded to 600 grit the model is definitely looking nicer but I'm still not satisfied so I'm gonna do a final round of sanding this time using mineral spirits instead of that soapy water and I'm gonna use some 2000 grit sandpaper this combination should leave us with a really clean finish [Music] let's wipe off any excess mineral oil with a paper towel and that's what I call a smooth finish now I want to finish these parts off using this semi-gloss black spray paint by Tamiya Tamiya makes these excellent spray paints specifically for plastic models while pricier than the average spray paint you'll find at a hardware store this stuff goes on really smooth except in this case where I was using the very end of the can and I ran out of paint so my backup plan was to switch to this gun ship gray which I just painted directly on top of the other paint I'm also going to be using this black enamel paint by testers for the eyes of our creature since enamel paint leaves this really nice shiny finish which i think is perfect for giving this little guy some life you kind of only have one shot with this so that was definitely a little nerve-racking but I think I did a pretty good job here's how the ears turned out and as you can see some of that black spray paint actually came through the gray which I consider a happy accident so once all that paint is dry we can go ahead and assemble our little guy now while the model looks pretty finished at this point there are still some scuffs and little scratchy areas especially inside the creases where I couldn't quite reach with the sandpaper and I could keep trying to sand that forever but the easiest way to make those cracks disappear is with a coat of polyurethane spray so I just gave this guy a couple quick coats with this Minwax fast-drying polyurethane in clear satin and we'll just go ahead and leave that to dry overnight in the meantime let's do something completely different I thought it would be fun to build the base for this model using a 3d pen so we're gonna go ahead and open up this 3doodler create plus leather addition just like the special green a legume Mars printer this leather-bound 3d pen doesn't actually affect how the pen works but it's leather baby so that's cool this pen also comes with some fancy filaments and I think we're actually gonna start off with some of that wood filament I'll start my base here by building it up on this 3d mate design mat which helps me create this nice perfect circle with a flat surface then I'll keep building up with this dark wood filament and I also put a little bit of foam inside of there just to take up space and I'll build this up into a little mound of dirt I'll smooth that out using the side of the pen to just create this nice interesting texture and then I'll create this glowy looking turquoise grass by squiggling some plastic on top it's cool now we can peel that off of our base I'll put down some dabs of e6000 in these little foot holes that I left for our model and I'll set the legs of our model into place I'll give that glue about an hour to start drying and then I'll go ahead and use some more e6000 to glue on the top part of our model I'll just make sure that it's posed exactly how I want it and we've got mozz [Music] I'm still in awe at just how smooth I was able to get this model and I'm absolutely thrilled with how it turned out at first glance it kind of looks like a computer rendering [Music] having printed this model on the Ella goomar's I am thoroughly impressed at its capabilities it's pretty amazing that you could get such a pristine model off of a $300 printer now despite this being $300 I have to stress it's not a toy this is a serious tool and it requires serious safety precautions working with resin is still messy we got to have a lot of gloves paper towels isopropyl alcohol ideally a curing station you gotta wear a respirator so you're not breathing in these toxic fumes and you don't want to get any of this resin on your skin by any means but when I need that absolutely pristine looking model I mean this is gonna be the way to go you can just get absolute insane quality off of this so that's why resin printers have been really popular with people who do little tiny miniatures and things like that it's just gonna get you quality that you can't get off of an FTM printer for me I like building functional parts and usually that doesn't require an immaculate print quality so I'm still a fan of FDM printers but it is definitely handy to have one of these things in my tool kit you can pick up this special green edition of the elgu Mars at my mini factory it looks super cool and you'll also get a few free premium models from the my manufactory store included with your purchase so that's pretty cool I think they might throw my little my little boy Mars in there as well alright folks well that concludes my little demonstration of this a legume Mars 3d printer if you did find this video helpful please consider leaving a like and if you want to see more from yours truly please consider subscribing much appreciated lots of cool stuff down the road but that's it for today's video so until then I'm Devin this is make anything and as always stay inspired [Music] you