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hey party people in this video I'm going to teach you everything you need to know about zippers whether you are buying one zipper at your local fabric store to work on a project or you're trying to sort out your production okay so let's just launch into the vocabulary and then I'm gonna show you some applications at the end of this video and let's go number one the first category you want to think about is whether you want a separating zipper or a closing zipper a closed end zipper is gonna have a stopper at the bottom that stops you from the zipper opening all the way through and these are best for pants skirts anything that the zipper is not gonna go all the way through the garment you know those fleece pullovers with the little zipper that goes just down to the chest those sorts of things and again you can get these closed end zippers in all kinds of different materials and colors it doesn't really affect that invisible zippers are another kind of closed end zipper but they they don't have a metal stopper they are just closed up with glue and part of that I think is for cost efficiency part of that is they want it as sin and light and unobtrusive as possible their invisible zippers are supposed to be as unobtrusive as possible on the garment then you have separating zippers and they're good for jackets and coats where you need them to come apart so you can open the jacket right and again you can get separating zippers in metal teeth nylon a subcategory of the separating zipper is the two-way zipper so two-way zippers have two heads one at the bottom one at the top and you can open them from the top or the bottom I personally don't love these and I find it a little bit awkward to operate but whatever you're the designer right so you can separate them although wait that's what that looks like what there at the bottom yeah you can separate them completely next let's talk about teeth zipper teeth are you know these little things that click together to form your zipper and you can get them in lots of different materials this is metal this is your classic plastic teeth zipper these are kind of your regular nylon coil or polyester coil zippers and they're called such because they kind of look like a coil of nylon just wrapping around the edge of the zipper tape I think you can see it better here so these are your nylon zippers some are made out of polyester and then you have your invisible zipper which looks like your nylon coil zippers from the back there's a little polyester zipper here's your invisible zipper that's the front or it's all nice and smooth and here's the front of this one and then when you turn them the invisible zipper has the teeth on the back and even on this one the back is not as smooth as the front of the invisible zipper so Moe zipper companies they offer four basic metal colors these are your shiny nickel and your antique nickel do you see how this one is a little bit dulled and aged a little bit and this one is just a shiny standard silvery nickel I don't have any antique brass but this is your standard regular brass just gold shiny and then your antique brass will be a duller gold some zipper companies may offer different metal colors like a really dusty bronze or a copper I'm sure you can get special orders if you order you know tens of thousands of zippers you can get plastic teeth and every zipper company is going to have their own color card same with these nylon coil and invisible zippers let's talk about zipper teeth size so most jackets like fall fashion jackets whether they're for men four women are typically a number five size these are both number five zippers and this is a number three zipper so you can tell the difference this is a number five nylon zipper and this is a number five metal zipper do you see how the sizes are similar and here's your number three nylon zipper number three zippers are nice for smaller closures for finer fabrics number five is good for jackets and you can see by comparing to the number five zipper these are a number three metal zipper in this gorgeous copper color and this is a more nicely tailored linen pant and so it takes this number three nylon zipper something smaller or flatter smoother a little bit more delicate back when I was working with men's leather outerwear full-time we did a lot of these with fall winter workmen's codes that required a lot of heavy duty hardware this is not one of the designs from that company this isn't a super old vintage motorcycle jacket in that classic styling with all the classic zipper placements and here is the front zipper it's compare it to our number-5 zipper here's my number 5 and here's that's a this is most likely a number-10 zipper it's huge it looks like the zippers on the pockets are a number 5 alright so where are we in the ordering process we figured out whether we want a separating separating two-way or closed end zipper we have figured out the material of teeth the color of teeth and the size of teeth next up let's talk about the tape the tape of a zipper is you know this fabric that's the zipper ears attached to and again companies will have their own color card you can get these nylon zippers with a matching teeth and tape you can also get them in contrasting colors I don't have any on hand but you can definitely order these plastic zippers with like you know white teeth and an orange tape or hot pink T's in a black tape there are a lot of color combinations you know I think as long as you go off their color card for their teeth and the tape you can get pretty much any combination you want when zipper companies quote you minimum quantities for a zipper there including the length in that so let's say you order this zipper if you order this zipper but also this zipper one inch longer that's two different zippers it's not the same zipper so if the minimum order quantity is a hundred zippers that means a hundred of these and a hundred of these but longer they're not going to count you know fifty of these and fifty of the longer ones as a minimum order that's the general rule for zipper companies so keep that in mind when you're thinking about minimum orders and your zippers because the thing you have to remember is when you are grading your patterns up and down you also have to change the zipper length as jackets get bigger they typically get longer when pants get bigger the fly gets longer you're gonna need longer zippers and so you need to order the quantities with your graded links look I had a production manager and he was like most most people who know what they're doing with a pair of pliers they will take these metal zippers and they will knock a few teeth off and you can buy these Stoppers these zipper Stoppers new ones and then snap them right at the top I just take like a half inch of teeth off and then put a new stopper on there and you can do that for a lot of metal zippers but listen if you were doing 200 jackets do you want to do that with every zipper oh my god no that's like a little trick you use for sample runs or special orders right these kinds of zippers or these kinds of zippers you can't really do that the thing with these though is you can just kind of hide the bottom by sewing over it same with invisible zippers I tip just order longer invisible zippers and then I just sew right through the teeth especially with these zippers you want to order the right link next let's talk about zipper heads and pulls this is the head and this is the pull and there are a lot of different pull designs out there a lot I don't have very many but here's a square here is this kind of trapezoidal shape 99% of the invisible zippers out there look almost exactly like this this super minimal narrow head with a super minimal skinny little pull and this one is a fun little dangly chain but yeah there are a lot of styles out there if you've seen these big massive denim brands they typically have a zipper tab with their logo on it lots of big clothing companies have their own logo on these zippers and yeah if you want to do the same you're gonna have to order a huge quantity if it's super important to you that you have a personalized zipper but you can't afford the minimums to get your logo engraved think about maybe having a zipper like this with a hole at the end of the pole where you can kind of tie you know a ribbon or a leather strip of leather you can also get a ribbon with your logo on it instead you know personalize it in that way if you really want to let's talk a few construction things there are essentially three categories of zipper construction that can be altered slightly to suit your design needs the first style and the most common one is your railroad or Railway zip where you have the fabric come in its folded down on either side of the zipper and top stitch down some of the variations on this are you can have double needle top stitch you can have some kind of decorative top stitch happening you can decide how much of the zipper to show as well this one is sewn so that the tape is not showing but the teeth are showing it's really this jacket the hardware is really part of the design this is just a little sample but you can sew it like this where you are also showing the zipper tape which is why it's designating the zipper tape color can be very important or you can sew it so that you know you'll stitch it away from the teeth but you'll fold it in such a way that the zipper teeth are covered when the zipper is closed up the second category is invisible zippers and when an invisible zipper is sewn correctly you should basically only see the head it should look like it's part of the scene you shouldn't see any extra bulkiness top stitching gapping or anything like that it should just when it lies it should lie flat and it should look like it's part of the seam now the reason I pulled this one to show you as an example is what happened here they did not pre shrink this fabric before they sewed in the zipper and so after I washed it the zipper did not shrink but the fabric shrunk and so now the zipper is like what do I do it's all wonky and Ripley free shrink your fabric Co the third category of zipper construction is the lapped zipper now the Lapp zipper is where you have the center back seam of my dress and you see this fold here right and your zipper is hiding back here the zipper is ever so slightly off-center front because the edge of the lap this lapped part is the center back right so this is the center back there here's the seam there's the end of the zipper there's a little tough stitch line there and that's the fold and that's what that looks like and when you zip it up you should not see anything now a more common version of the lab zipper is the fly a a fly that you see on jeans all kinds of pants is a variation of the lab zipper right here's your center front seam here's the folded edge of your fly and your zipper is ever so slightly off-center hidden behind the lapped the overlapping part honestly there are two schools of thought on this some people think that the construction of a fly zipper is so different from your traditional lab zipper like the dress I just showed you that they're considered two different things but I mean I think you can tell why there's some disagreement as to whether it's a fourth category of construction or not but whatever right the appearance is similar enough it's got that little bit of a lap and then you fold it back and there's your zipper in this nice beautiful copper color that I love please do give this video a thumbs up if you learned something new today do drop me a comment below if you are interested in zipper or sewing tutorial videos and I will go about making those things happen if there's enough demand for it and share subscribe it's a notification bell keep practicing selling zippers can be quite difficult especially the left and flies zippers a little bit tricky so you know what I'm gonna say the nun hashtag always you're practicing hashtag practice not magic and I will see you in the next video