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welcome de Burgh night making calm today we're going to take a look at how to make your own self-adhesive stencils for makers marks now we're going to be using a craft mile cutting machine called a silhouette cameo but I'm sure that any craft vinyl cutting machine will work just as well a lot of guys will buy stencils in order to to edge stencils or their makers mark on to the blades there are some restrictions to those stencils most of them are not self-adhesive and sometimes you can get a little bit of the electrolyte solution underneath the stencil on it opportunity to ruin the knife what we're gonna look at here is making creating very simple self-adhesive vinyl stencils which are much easier in my opinion to edge with now this is the silhouette cameo software I've just copy and pasted a silhouette of a seagull just as a demonstration you can resize that trace it resize it position it at the top of the page and then and then print it out it's as simple as that for a simple stencil so you know you import a very black dark JPEG image that you find on the on the web you can modify that image and make it a little bit more of a complex logo or personalized logo so here's the silhouette image that I imported from the web I'm going to outline that I'm gonna make it all yellow and this is with the what they call high pass and then hit the trace button once the lines are red those are actually what what's called the cut lines now I'm going to customize this by adding a letter B I can highlight that I can change the font of that letter make it a little bit bolder and then I can position that right up on top of the bear so now you'll have a no custom bear with the letter B you can resize that and again reposition it up towards the top of the page I print off four rolls of vinyl so I always want to you know kind of conserve my vinyl a little bit and print everything from the top of the page I put a square around it just makes the whole process a little easier when you're when you're peeling these things off now these self-adhesive vinyl cutting machines do have some restrictions in themselves the size of the font if you're going to use letters really can't be much smaller than about a quarter of an inch high and I'm gonna show you some details about getting a better quality on text this is some artwork that I worked up in CorelDraw and I imported it as a JPEG and now I'm going to trace it so I highlighted the area to be traced I made the entire area yellow solid yellow with the high pass and then I'm hitting the trace button then I'm gonna drag away that artwork and I'm relieved I'm left with the cut lines now I'm gonna create my logo here now the one thing that you have to say is that this you only have to do this once and you're gonna save the file and then you can reprint this and resize it as many times as you want it's just creating that custom logo that takes a little bit of time so I made the text a little bit of a bolder font and I'm gonna resize it to fit within the constraints of my knife logo you can move it in from the sides you can you can pull it from top and bottom to make it fit now when you're gonna actually cut these things out letters are very difficult especially like B and the are you know any letter that has a small opening in it or a small space so the two voids and the be the the void in the are very very difficult because they have a tendency of lifting off of the vinyl so what you want to do here is make a stencil out of them there's a cut tool and I'm just going to make a cut line in the B and a cut line in the R and then I'm gonna zoom in so you can see it a little bit better and I've made this into pixels now I can grab each one of those dots and pull it over so I'm creating basically a wider line that connects the top void of the B to the bottom void of the Bay and what that's gonna enable us to do is to create letters and peel the vinyl or weed out the edged areas of the other unwanted areas in the vinyl without lifting off of these small voids you want to end up with a line that's you know that's big enough to actually get cut out I'm going to do the same thing with the art doesn't take long once you get the hang of it you know you cut a line and then you're basically just gonna grab and move over a couple of those a couple of those points that should take care of the text a lot of this is going to be trial and error so the first time you're making your logo I would definitely recommend printing one of them and seeing if it works a lot of times you know I'll create a I'll create a logo like this and then when I go to print it I find out that the lines are a little bit too small you know the space in between is a little bit too small and I have to go back and tweak it a little bit I know for a fact that the lines on the actual knife portion of this logo are too thin so I'm going to show you how to modify that so I positioned this up at the top of the page I'm gonna zoom in reposition it to where I'm gonna work and the spacing here that the lines are just too thin it would never ever cut out or if it did cut out you never be able to separate it easily so I'm just gonna make that into the dots grab each one of the points and pull them inward it takes a little bit of time but it's really not that bad and like I said before you really only have to do it once so I'm going to do that for the handle I'm also gonna do it for the tip of the blade make all those lines a little bit wider and then I'll do a practice cut on this and if it's not you know wide enough for me to actually you know lift off those lines during the process of you know pulling the or reading the vinyl off or for the stencil I can always come back redo it resize it and print it out again and when I made by printing is cutting out I can duplicate the logos so I could once um I've got one finalized that I know is working I could print out a whole sheet of these and I could also customize them and have different sizes for different size blades when it comes time to cutting you go over into the top right hand corner to print you pick vinyl you set the blade at - I normally set the speed and around five and the depth 13 or 14 and then I hit print this sends it over to the silhouette cameo final cutting machine there's a little knife which is that blue circle goes down into a knife and the machine just fractions back and forth and cuts out each one of those stencils independently depending on the complexity of your logo this can be a very fast process to print these things out or can you know can take a few minutes now weeding a very simple logo that like that first seagull that I pointed that I showed you it's just a matter of peeling the seagull prepping the blade you know cleaning it off with alcohol to get any grease off of it laying the vinyl on and then you're you're basically ready to etch a little bit more complex logo like the bear with the bee I'm gonna use a transfer film now this is just clear film that I got it Ace Hardware it's contact paper clear contact paper you press it on you know onto the stencil with a credit card or something similar hard plastic I'm gonna trim off some of the excess backing paper as well as contact paper and then I'm just gonna peel the white backing paper being very careful so as not to lift that letter B from the inside of it there now the clear transfer film really helps you position it correctly you can see through it so you can position it wherever you want on the knife again you prep the knife and this is just one of our standard blanks that I'm demonstrating on but normally this would be done after the knife is is almost finished bevels are done all cleaned up ready to go and then you peel off that transfer film and you'd add some additional masking around this vinyl and then you go right to electro etching the same stencil will work with with an acid etch so the more complex logo and this is where it gets a little tricky is very very time-consuming small letters are very difficult in small thin lines are very difficult so you're gonna spend a lot more time you know trying to weed the areas off of the mile or to pull the areas off everything that you're removing the vinyl that you're removing is what's actually gonna get etched and any vinyl that remains is what's gonna be you know blocked from the etching it's called the resist now in the more complex levels I I would always recommend transferring them with the transfer film just like I showed you before put it on a hard surface it'll really rub it a little bit with a piece of plastic an old credit card works great trim off the excess contact paper clear contact paper transfer film is what they call it and then you can you can peel the white backing again when you're peeling this kind of roll it back and make sure that that none of the small you know like the inside of the letters are peeling to position this exactly where you want press firmly get out any little bubbles and peel off carefully peel off that contact paper and again this this logo is now ready to be masked so I put some additional vinyl to mask around the stencil I've connected the positive lead of a battery charger to it I'm heading with a car battery charger 12 volts 2 amps this particular mic is stainless steel so I'm itching with a stainless electrolyte solution but for high carbon blades you would just use warm saltwater as electrolyte solution the negative lead goes to a piece of angle iron that's wrapped with gauze and your edge for 30 seconds to maybe 30 to 60 seconds I usually only etch 20 seconds at a time because I don't want too much heat to build up so I'll do 20 and then 20 and then 20 to get my full minute and carefully look at it if you want a deeper logo you can certainly spend more time but 12 volts 2 amps for around a minute total usually works out pretty well for the logo etching peel off the vinyl I use a little razor knife just to peel off all the little pieces of vinyl that are still gonna be adhered to the logo itself and then I can clean this off with some very fine Emery you know a thousand thousand grit or so so I hope this gives you you know a little bit of information on printing your own self-adhesive vinyl logos it's it's very easy to do for a basic logo a little bit more time-consuming for for anything that has text in it and the restrictions are going to be that that text to them probably can only print down to about a quarter inch wide other than that a really really good machine to have you can put out a nice product and this is the final the final X logo I hope you enjoyed the show I ask that you please give it a thumbs up and subscribe to this YouTube channel I'd like to give you an invite to join us on our Facebook group knives and knife making by all means please check out the book that Jason North guard and I put out last year called introduction to knife making and that's available on amazon.com you
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